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L'eSkro

L'e$kro's JDM RX8 6 speed

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After about a week driving this, I have to say I'm enjoying it, although I never really liked the RX8 until driving this one every day, and after a few mods to to give it some "character" that I thought it was originally lacking of...

I like the MazdaSpeed suspension as it's still has the "oem" feel but a little more firm/lower.

The leak at the manifold is sorted, I thought the air tube port was a dummy one on the eBay manifold, but turns out it wasn't! I chopped off the flange from the air tube and welded a bung in it, and installed it, now the exhaust is quiet enough that I'm quite convinced it would pass through NCT! It's still louder than the oem one, and there is a bit of droning noise at certain RPM. I may try to squeeze in a flex joint somewhere, as there is none right now.. But now I'm happy I've made the exhaust, however it will reveal it's potential if I can get the car to run properly :)

I took the stereo apart to reconnect the warning/hazard switch, and installed an Xcarlink AUX interface I got cheap on ebay, but I'll have to replace the stereo's fascia as it's cracked in many places where the screws go in the back of it, as buttons tend to sink in

Next in the list: Changing the cabin filter (not sure it will help with de-mysting the windows, but it can't hurt!) and installing the new coils when I get the HT leads. If that solves the power issue, then I may treat it with some wheels, as it looks a bit odd with the 16" at the rear and 18" at the front..

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Yes it's very possible that a new cabin fitter will help in demisting your windows:). I didn't want to say earlier but now that you mentioned you have running problems, is it worse since you have changed the intake??.

The reason I say this is because the reports on the RX8 forums are  mixed to bad on  the K&N.

Also you are doing some great work with your RX8 and if you haven't come across this tread below this is the one I read to do bits on what to do with my rx8. I have some of these upgrades done and more been  done at the moment as they have been tried and testedB)

https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-forum-197/newbies-guide-modding-rx-8-a-233937/

Edited by Aido 8

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Thanks for the link and the suggestions Aido!

Dave Emmerson mentioned the possible problems with the typhoon intake on FB. It made no difference really, as the problem was there before anyway. I'm keeping it the K&N for the moment as it's easier to take it out for accessing the coils. I've just received the HT leads, so I will mod the bracket and change the coils this week end. Fingers crossed, hope it solves the problem! Then we'll see if the K&N stays or goes, swapping over is a few minutes job anyway...

This car is a cheap daily, so I won't go mental with it  (I always say that though :D)

Nico

 

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Mystery solved:

I have a lot of CEL codes despite the "Check Engine Light" not showing up. So obviously someone wired it to the nearest one (battery charging light)...

 

Here are the codes:

 

  • P0351 Ignition Coil A, Circuit Malfunction
  • P0352 Ignition Coil B, Circuit Malfunction
  • P0353 Ignition Coil C, Circuit Malfunction
  • P0354 Ignition Coil D, Circuit Malfunction

All the above codes apparently affect JDM cars running aftermarket coils, so that would be expected since I changed the OEM ones for the LS2 coils last week-end.

  • P0661 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Low Bank 1a

That's the SSV solenoid, the middle/white one. And I'm guessing that's why the SSV is stuck open despite moving freely, and would explain the lack of power.

  • P0037 o2 Sensor Heater voltage low

I have no secondary O2 on the car

 

  • P2259 AIR solenoid valve control circuit high ON 2 CCM

Air valve solenoid, blue, top one. I'm thinking to remove that one altogether.

Also, a code that I've had but that does not seem to come back since I cleared it:

  • P0410 Secondary Air Injection Circuit Fail

I have no air pump, so that may explain this one.

 

So I'm guessing the next job will be to take the upper intake manifold off from the car and changing the SSV solenoid, and possibly removing the one controlling the air valve...

 

Nico


 

 

 

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You've done some great work on the car Nico, fair dues to you! :) Nice job on the exhaust too - just surprised you didn't go for a much larger backbox given it's an N/A car & it was the only silencer on the entire car!! :lol: Has the second one made much of a difference?

A quick trip to Jamie's sounds like it's on the cards now that you've a load of bits to do including the dwell timing on the coils, or have you MazdaEdit etc yourself?

And as mentioned already, at our dyno day in July 2016 the K&N Typhoon was tested  as making the RX8 lose power over the standard intake, around 16bhp from memory on a 6-port MSP!! :wacko: It'll be in the results/end of the "Rotary 3D" thread anyway if that's of any help. :)

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Thanks JP!

The single silencer was a bit optimistic indeed. The mx5 and FC run a similar one and are quite bearable, but they both have a turbo to quieten things up!

The second one made it better. It's quiet at idle, but any throttle input makes a very metallic sounding noise, with some droning at certain RPMs, that most people wouldn't live with.

I don't have MazdaEdit, not worth buying for me as Jamie should be able to do it. I'll have to check with him if he can prevent the codes P0351-P0354 to appear though, as these are specific to the JDM cars apparently, and would trigger the CEL. Dwell is pretty close from OEM, from what I could find, if anything, the LS2 coils would need less dwell?

The K&N is staying until I have all the other issues ironed out, as it's very handy to have only 2 bolts to remove to take it out! Then I'll probably put back the standard airbox, but will keep the VFAD solenoid out of the picture

Nico

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I believe he can sort those codes no bother. ;)

Not sure whether it's more or less dwell they need on the ECU, possibly less alright aye. I just knew from looking at the maps that there was a bit of a difference between them & OEM but that you could run on them without too much bother, only things like starting & some other conditions were affected from memory.

Why get rid of the VFAD out of curiosity? I've never come across any dyno printouts where they've been measured back-to-back as being on/off so not sure whether there's a performance gain with the low intake speed on the longer runner & again on the shorter runner at higher speeds.

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On 31/10/2017 at 1:18 PM, jp said:

Why get rid of the VFAD out of curiosity? I've never come across any dyno printouts where they've been measured back-to-back as being on/off so not sure whether there's a performance gain with the low intake speed on the longer runner & again on the shorter runner at higher speeds.

Well with the K&N it would draw air from the path with least resistance on idle, so likely hot air from the engine bay, rather than through the long tube, so it's pretty pointless at the moment.

Even if I put the oem box back, I won't be putting the VFAD solenoid back, for the sake of simplicity, even if it's at the cost of a pony or 2 at low RPM :). You know what they said about the Willys Jeep? It is reliable because "there is nothing to break", so that's why I want to remove stuff that's not essential.

I spoke to Jamie and he said it wouldn't be a problem for the JDM coils.

I collected a pair of solenoids from a gentleman called John, who owns the grey RX8 some of you may have spotted in Mondello..

This week-end I'll take off the upper inlet manifold, and swap the SSV solenoid, and I'll also remove the throttle body coolant feed while I'm at it.

Updates soon, hopefully with good news!

Nico

 

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Solenoids changed, also took off the oil filler neck so I could put a cap on the throttle body coolant source at the rear plate..

I also installed a JDM Mazdaspeed strutbrace with brake stopper

7909098515C98ADE4D49BF928A19BE02202E6F.j

376779D19E889F3ED646A7BD0789270720B110.j

and good news everyone, the solenoid fixed the problem, car pulls well throughout the rev range, happy days!

Nico

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Thanks Jamie!!

Some updates here:

Went up to Limerick to collect a Satnav housing, and ended up bringing back a spare interior as well.

My car had alcantara manual seats, and I got a set of leather(ette) seats, the driver side not only being heated, but motorised rails and tilt, and had extra ABS

873186IMG1288.jpg

Had to strip the seat to remove the rails, but basically ended up swapping the back piece and the bottom one on my manual one, and removed the airbags

411298IMG1289.jpg

The rails with motors is a good 10kg heavier I'd say!

822041IMG1291.jpg

Anyway, here I give you a manual leather seat (don't mind the mess, I just got a little comfy there :D)

939040IMG1290.jpg

Here is the interior:

938786IMG1293.jpg

Shortly after that, the car ran out of battery, then flooded itself (didn't happen for a while), and it's back on the road eventually!

Nico

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9 minutes ago, littlefeck said:

Fair play. I'm surprised you didn't keep the electrics. Looks well tho!
 

Thanks Jamie,

The main connectors are the same between the manual and power seats, but there is no provision for power seats or heated elements in the car, and it would have been a lot of hassle to add the pins and the wiring, with limited benefits: I'm the one mostly driving the Rx8, so i don't adjust it that often, and the manual rails are actually a lot quicker than the electric ones, while weighting a whole lot less...

I may regret ripping off the heated element from the driver side though, that could have been nice in the winter!

The airbag connector is separate (yellow one), and isn't there on my car either, so I can save another couple of KGs removing them.

Nico

 

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And another day I had to get a lift to work.

I've replaced the regular battery for a spare Odyssey PC680 I had for the FC, and the battery went flat overnight again, so there is something drawing current.

I'll have to investigate during the week end.

Nico

 

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So, the battery drain was due to a bad contact with the dome lights bulbs, and also, the spare PC680 battery wasn't 100% either, so I've put the other small factor battery I had and now it starts well in the morning...

Another project I've been doing during the week end:

The Satnav housing:

Hardware:

I had an old Nexus 7 (2012). I had to push 5v in the battery directly to charge it, as it wouldn't charge or power on after sitting for a few years, but I managed to re-animate it.

Even with an angled "Y" USB host and charging cable, I thought it was a little tight to fit within the housing, so instead I moved the USB and audio ports at the back of the case, saved me on making room:

 

451630IMG1310.jpg

Tablet is glued in place with a glue gun. Not ideal, but still should come out if needed, I didn't go mad with it.

Then I fitted the OEM controller board and the motor back in. Controller board is resting on polystyrene pads and glue.

521708IMG1312.jpg

I was lucky to have the OEM connector and a bit of wiring for the satnav board, I just un-pined all the unnecessary wires.

I tapped into the stereo connector for the permanent live, and the cigarette ignitor for ground and switched live. Illumination feed comes from the cigarette lighter light.

The tablet is powered using a 2.1A cigarette lighter thingy, and it takes its current from the cigarette lighter wires.

On the host side, I have a Belkin hub in the glovebox for accessories: USB stick, SNES pads.

Audio is just a minijack cable from the tablet to the Xcarlink aux box, also in the glovebox. I may replace this with a USB DAC/sound card as there are a lot of parasitic noises when the engine is on and revving. I may also try a ground loop isolator thingy, we'll see.

I installed the tablet while low on battery, and the only way I found to charge it easily without leaving the ignition ON, is to plug a spare battery into the cigarette ignitor socket, so it charges the tablet with the key off and doesn't drain the main battery.

Software:

I installed the USB ROM firmware, as it lightweight and adds a couple of nice features: Fast charging, having the menu bar at the bottom, goes to sleep when not charging, and wakes up when charging.

The launcher I have at the moment is Car Launcher AG. Interface is nice nut it doesn't allow to configure custom buttons (ie: "Games") EDIT: managed to do it, can change name icon and target.

The Navigation app used is CoPilot

The tablet currently loses 30% of battery overnight, which is more than I would charge by just commuting. I'll have to look into what's draining the battery (It seems to point to Google services) and disable whatever is not needed.

I'll take a few pics of the finished setup..

Nico

 

 

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A picture of the tablet setup:

136774IMG1371.jpg

The culprit for the battery drain is the GPS. If I don't switch it off manually, it drains the battery.

I've ordered a Behringer UFO202 DAC, to see if it gets rid of the parasitic noise.

I'm also trying a different launcher (Car Web Guru) but it's not setup yet..

 

And in order to get rid of some droning noise resonating in the cabin at certain RPMs, I've added a flex section after my manifold:

562730IMG1370.jpg

It's slightly better, and it's as good as it will get anyway!

Nico

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Satnav install looks great! B) Well done you Nico! :)

Any pics of what the heating element in the seat looks like? Was thinking of retrofitting an 8 heating element to an FD seat... :D

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Thanks JP!

2 hours ago, jp said:

Any pics of what the heating element in the seat looks like? Was thinking of retrofitting an 8 heating element to an FD seat... :D

Sorry JP, I ripped it out and it went to the bin straight away. You could possibly remove it delicately from rx8 leather seats, but otherwise you can avoid sacrificing good seats by purchasing aftermarket heating elements from eBay/Amazon, may turn out cheaper, plus it will come with wiring, relay and switches. If you do sacrifice rx8 seats for the cause, the hard covers on my seats have seen better days :hint:

Nico

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47 minutes ago, L'eSkro said:

Sorry JP, I ripped it out and it went to the bin straight away. You could possibly remove it delicately from rx8 leather seats, but otherwise you can avoid scarifying good seats by purchasing aftermarket heating elements from eBay/Amazon, may turn out cheaper, plus it will come with wiring, relay and switches. If you do sacrifice rx8 seats for the cause, the hard covers on my seats have seen better days :hint:

Ha ha ha! No worries dude! ;) You're the second person that's suggested to try aftermarket ones so may just do that. :)

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I robbed 20mm spacers and front GTR wheels with NS2R tyres from the FC:

239334DF4485A2DF81415699C4F61B3D09DE59.j

It clears the brakes, barely! Also, it will need 20mm spacers at the back to bring them out like at the front.

Tyres are grippy, I can hammer the brakes without locking them

I’ll take better pictures when the weather won’t be so crappy..

Nico

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2018 Update. Failed NCT on a few things:

-Front shocks imbalance. Annoying as they are Mazdaspeed ones, and I got rid of the oem ones..

-Rear tracking. Last time car passed with different tyre sizes at the back!

-Rear tyre past the limit.

-Rear parking light (it's dimmed, seems there is a bad ground or something)

Nico

 

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