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Found 68 results

  1. Hi guys looking for an exhaust for an rx8 2006, lost my muffler on the way home as the rust got it badly soo be looking for another one, if anyone got any for sale or any recommendations for a new one and not bank breaking, cheers
  2. So I've been asked this question a few times & each time I've had to go digging through old photos to find the following info so I'm finally posting up here in case I or anyone else needs it in the future. Hope it's useful to ye! IMPORTANT NOTE: As with everything you read on the internet, please bear in mind I've gathered this info from various other sources which I can't remember/reference now in 2020 as I took this photo & did the research back in 2017, but that they seemed reputable/reliable at the time. I haven't flow-tested any of these. This info is posted in good faith that this is the best/most accurate info I have to-date on this topic. If someone has a reputable source that we can link to to either verify or correct this info (as in a material correction, not for the sake of 1cc...) & the info needs editing, please let me know & I'll be happy to update it. According to the pics attached, here is the breakdown of fuel injector specs per series of RX8, the part numbers that appear on the sides of them & their approximate sizes: Series 1 (2003-2008): Secondary rail 6-port (4 per engine) - yellow - 425cc - Denso 331; 04; 195500-4450 Secondary rail 4-port (2 per engine) - blue - 540cc - Denso 529; 26; 195500-4460 Primary rail both 4-port & 6-port (2 per engine) - red - 225cc - Denso 330; 16; 195500-4430 Series 2 (2009-2012): Secondary rail 6-port (2 per engine) - orange - 480cc - Denso 825; 10; 297500-1230 (8D3 21) Primary rail 6-port (2 per engine) - green - 390cc - Denso 825; 14; 297500-1220 (8DF 21) A few things to note between the generations/series of injectors: - The Series 1 RX8 secondary rail fuel injectors all have 4 hole fuel outlet/spray holes & appear to have a relatively narrow angle of spray (anticlockwise from from top left, pic below shows: blue S1 fuel injector, yellow S1, orange S2). Conversely, the Series 1 primary rail (red) injectors have 8 holes (see detailed pics further down this page) that would appear to be a relatively wide angle of spray. - The Series 2 RX8 fuel injectors all have 8 hole fuel outlet/spray holes & appear to have a relatively wide angle of spray (left-to-right, pic below shows: orange S2 fuel injector, green S2). Front angle of all the injectors together: Rear angle of all the injectors together: Detailed pics per injector: Series 1 (2003-2008): Secondary rail 6-port - yellow - 425cc - Denso 331; 04; 195500-4450 Secondary rail 4-port - blue - 540cc - Denso 529; 26; 195500-4460 Primary rail both 4-port & 6-port - red - 225cc - Denso 330; 16; 195500-4430 Series 2 (2009-2012): Secondary rail 6-port - orange - 480cc - Denso 825; 10; 297500-1230 (8D3 21) Interestingly out of the same engine, on the right-hand-side of the injectors, one had a "B" stamped into it & the other didn't - no idea why at the time of writing this, possibly front VS rear rotor. Primary rail 6-port - green - 390cc - Denso 825; 14; 297500-1220 (8DF 21)
  3. Here is the build thread to go with my very bad idea of an RX8 project car. The original plan was to drop an 13B REW engine from an RX7 into the car but I thought that seemed a little too easy! Onward then came the idea of a "Hybrid" engine. This basically involves replacing the RX8 housings with earlier RX7 housing to gain the peripheral exhaust ports. On top of this the plan is to turbocharge the car. As you can see I have very little room to do this but we'll make it work!
  4. 2003 231 6speed rx8 with low mileage for sale. €1500 with nct but nct centers are not taking bookings at the moment so it has no nct so willing to let it go for €1300 without nct. if anybody is interested. This car starts cold on the first turn and hot on first turn both without any struggle. There are no oil leaks and no rust on chassis. There is a few dents in the body from car doors hitting it. No paint damage other then clear coat coming off rear bumper around registration plate. This car has really low mileage because previous owner didnt know how to start it when a turn of the key didnt work. So I took it on board and aftsr a few days to a week of trial and error and process of elimination I fixed the problem with new wireinf to alternator and fuse/relay board. Turned and started first time after a few years of sitting in a shed. Reason for sale is I have no room to keep it and if I could I would take engine out and drop it in my own one I drive as a daily. A compression test will be done upon request from shadow rotary before sale. If anyone has any more questions or wants to call me im based in dublin 5mins away from shadow rotary in citywest/tallaght area. This wont allow me to upload videos or images of the car so if you want any I can send on whatsapp or facebook. Both on request from genuine interest...
  5. Hi all, Does anyone know of a mechanic with good knowledge of these cars, as close to Kilfenora/Lisdoonvarna as possible? My local mechanic doesnt know about the rotary and so hasnt the confidence to investigate. Plan B is to get it on a tow truck to Shadow Rotary Thanks
  6. Hi all, Just posted in the wrong topic so im posting again here...sorry, very knew here. Does anyone know of a mechanic with good knowledge of these cars, as close to Kilfenora/Lisdoonvarna as possible? My local mechanic doesnt know about the rotary and so hasnt the confidence to investigate. Plan B is to get it on a tow truck to Shadow Rotary
  7. Hi everyone, this post is to raise awareness of potentially damaging "fake" NGK spark plugs for sale on eBay for the RX8 (RE7C & RE9B) - the hope is that this helps others to avoid getting stung with non-genuine plugs that due to their design, could be potentially damaging to your engine if they fail prematurely. It seems there are some non-genuine/badly manufactured "NGKs" out there: see attached pics of new "genuine" (allegedly) NGK plugs (shown in groups of 4) versus the used genuine NGK plugs or the pics of the pair of new plugs which again are genuine (bought elsewhere). Note in particular: The thickness of the spark plug wall (much thinner in the non-genuine ones). The welding of the ground electrode onto the top of the spark plug wall (non-genuine) rather than set into a groove in the wall & then welded in-place (genuine NGK design). Although you can't tell from the pics, the length that the plug inserts into the combustion chamber is actually different to OEM as well. I bought these seemingly non-genuine or badly designed/manufactured plugs from this crowd on eBay as they seemed to have good feedback at the time & I now have an appeal in with them for a refund on the plugs they sent me: https://www.ebay.ie/usr/mazdaparts2015 Hope that helps!
  8. Hi I have an 07 RX 8 sitting on my drive way for a while. Starts & runs well new tyres & spark plugs when I bought it. Insurance company refused to insure it, hence it been sitting up. If anyone is interested in buying her give me a shout.
  9. My lovely Rotary is up for sale unfortunately. Donedeal Link below. Feel free to give me a call or text. https://www.donedeal.ie/cars-for-sale/2008-mazda-rx-8/21886701 Cheers Jack
  10. Project Leroy Popping an FD lump in my 8 recipe for diaster lol
  11. I've been driving my Mitsubishi colt for about 5 years now and was thinking about getting a new car since the colt is dying. After looking at videos and checking multiple forums online I fell in love with the rx8. I was looking to buy one for around 5k and was wondering if there is anything I should know before buying one. Any advice or help is appreciated as I'm a complete novice with buying cars or knowledge with rotary engines. I was looking at this one for example: https://www.donedeal.ie/cars-for-sale/mazda-rx-8-new-nct/21549660 Is this any good? Or should the miles scare me off. I know people say the engine isn't too reliable after a certain amount of mile because of the apex seals(I think?). Seriously any advice is welcome.
  12. Black 04 RX8 for breaking - please look through the list below before asking for something as the prices of the major items are listed below. The picture upload functionality is slow at the moment so once that's resolved photos will go up - in the meantime check out the Dropbox link here with all the pics etc: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ptlq1jo652hcd4a/AAAJVVEdRmp-kMLyoWqH8_Eba?dl=0 Anything that's not listed just ask on this thread or ideally call (please don't text - if you don't get through I'll call you back) the number: 083 1289 800 Suspension €50 front & €50 back Body panels including doors/bonnet/bumpers/bootlid SOLD/wings in black €50 each Interior parts/panels €20 each Radio including working 6-CD changer €80 BOSE amplifier & speakers €100 Limited Slip Differential €100 Headlights (HID model) €100 each Rear Lights €50 each Aluminium RX8 sill covers in excellent condition with rotary-shaped detailing €100 for both Factory front & rear spats (in black) €100 for the set Aluminium Fuel Flap €50 Key set (2 keys) includes igntition barrel, rear boot lock, door lock €150 Suspension arms €20 each Brake Calipers set (front) €100 ECU, airbags, clocks, Remote Keyless Entry Unit, etc POA Parts that're gone... Front Wing Side Strakes €20 for the set of 4 SOLD RX8 18" alloys in good condition including all centre caps Continental ContiSport Contact2 225/45/18 ~6mm thread Dunlop SP Sport01 225/45/18 ~5mm thread €250 SOLD Sebring cat-back exhaust €150 SOLD D585 coils + leads + mounting bracket + harness €220 SOLD Brake Caliper & disc driver's side (Rear) €SOLD
  13. RX8 13B-MSP 6-port engine for sale from a 2004 6-speed/231PS model. ~150K KMs on the car but the engine looks to have been replaced by Mazda at unknown KMs as there's no reflection in the history. Starts both cold & hot perfectly (See videos in link below) Comes with: Intake/exhaust manifolds & flywheel. (Coils/leads/plugs/injectors/alternator/throttlebody not included) This is a "plug it straight in where your engine has failed" solution. Tested with a proper rotary compression tester as follows with all readings corrected by the unit for altitude & to 250rpm (industry standard for rotary compression tests): Front Rotor: 6.6 Bar / 6.7 Bar / 6.7 Bar 96 Psi / 97 Psi / 97 Psi 250rpm Rear Rotor: 6.9 Bar / 7.2 Bar / 6.7 Bar 100 Psi / 104 Psi / 97 Psi 250rpm Videos of hot & cold starting are available. Price: €800 collected near Sandyford, Dublin. Any questions please feel free to ask in this thread or PM me.
  14. Straight to the point. I helped find this example for my sister, now she has decided to sell....... I know, your thinking why don't I buy it! Well, truth is I want to, but she won't sell it to me as I already have a few cars taking up space at her place already.... damn. Also, the small matter of not having any spare cash. To be fair, the car is seldom used and is sitting waiting for someone to show it the open road once more. I am hoping, really hoping, someone on here buys it because I hate Dungdeal and the like with a passion. The car is in very good condition, recent compression test, carried out by MCON, showed engine to be very healthy. On a side note, MCON is a true gentleman and I'd highly recommend him to anyone needing a test done. I won't go into all the detail of the Evolve spec, because if your on here, you probably already know it. I don't have pics yet, but its almost exactly like this one: http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/mazda/rx-8/mazda-rx-8-evolve--special-edition-31000-miles-copper-red-1-former-keeper-fsh-excellent--------------2006/6812344 I'm sure there are pics and/or vids on the forum, somewhere. IMO, this model has the nicest interior of all RX-8s. The only obvious differences with her car are the gunmetal powder coated OEM wheels, and black OEM lip on the bootlid. The car has zero mechanical modifications. Its been serviced by Gerry Broderick Motorsport, who has an impressively high level of attention to detail and personally thinks its a fabulous car. It is off the road at the minute, so no tax. Car will come with 12 months NCT if full price is paid. Mileage is 90,000 miles / 146,000km. You would believe it to be half that, such is the condition of the car. When searching for this car originally, I was intrigued as to how other cars had much lower mileage, but much worse wear. Interesting that..... Lots of history with the car and happy to facilitate another compression test if required. Everything works, zero issues with any of the electrics. High quality Mineral oil used, with genuine Mazda filters. No short runs, engine always warmed up slowly and allowed to cool before shutoff. Has not been flooded in her ownership. As a result of the care it gets, it starts first time, every time. Idles beautifully and revs cleanly. Anyone who knows the car will attest to it being very well cared for and a solid, hassle free example of the breed. Buy with confidence. Price - €5,500. Once you have looked at a few other high spec RX-8s, then get in touch. You won't be disappointed. I honestly think the first person to view it will buy it.
  15. Has any body any information on this car? reg is 03MO10221. It is the 230bhp model with sat nav with mid 60Ks miles. Also has a decat. Thanks in advance for any info
  16. Hi everyone, Nico here from Cork. Yesterday I had a day off and had the pleasure to meet @John001, who was selling his RX8 S1 as he now owns a S2. To be honest, I didn't particularly like the RX8 so far, too modern for my taste, but this one was black, so I thought it would match my other cars, and they represent quite good value for money as most people get scared by rotaries. Anyway, in Mazda's fashion, the car wouldn't start, but after removing the fuel pump fuse and cranking it for a while it started straight away. The Alcantara interior is nice, will just need a clean... I may end up insuring that as a main car in the next few weeks, and if I do so I will possibly change a few bits. Will keep you posted! Nico
  17. Hey guys looking for bit of advice. The driver's side floor is soaking. Only after it rains and coolant level hasn't moved in the few months I've had it. It has s sun roof so thought it could be leaking from there but cleans alled the holes with compressor and the issue still persists. Any common spots to have a look at? Car is generally parked on a slant so could be rolling up to the front from the rear? Not sure though as it's only the driver's side that's wet?
  18. I've had some difficulty finding the correct/accurate information about the different gear ratios across the RX8 range so thought I'd start this thread. If you know of somewhere with the correct information for any of the below please post it up, the source(s) & I'll update the first post. 2003-2008 (Series 1) 5-speed Manual: (Source: RX8Club) 1st 3.483; 2nd 2.015; 3rd 1.391; 4th 1.000; 5th 0.806; 6th -.---; Final Drive 4.300 6-speed Manual: (Source: Mazdatrix & RX8Club & USDM New Car Specs) 1st 3.760; 2nd 2.269; 3rd 1.645; 4th 1.187; 5th 1.000; 6th 0.843; Final Drive 4.440 4-speed Automatic: (Source: RX8Club) 1st 2.785; 2nd 1.543; 3rd 1.000; 4th 0.694; 5th -.---; 6th -.---; Final Drive 4.300 6-speed Automatic: 1st ?.???; 2nd ?.???; 3rd ?.???; 4th ?.???; 5th ?.???; 6th ?.???; Final Drive ?.??? 2008-2012 (Series 2) 5-speed Manual: (Source: FC2.com) 1st 3.483???; 2nd 2.015; 3rd 1.391; 4th 1.000; 5th 0.806; 6th -.---; Final Drive 4.444 6-speed Manual: (Source: Mazda via RX8Club & Mazdatrix & RX8Club & FC2.com) 1st 3.815; 2nd 2.260; 3rd 1.536; 4th 1.177; 5th 1.000; 6th 0.787; Final Drive 4.777 6-speed Automatic: (Mazda via RX8Club) 1st 3.538; 2nd 2.060; 3rd 1.404; 4th 1.000; 5th 0.713; 6th 0.582; Final Drive 4.300
  19. This topic has come up a good few times so I felt we should have a thread to list the regular places that rotary parts are available. "Why not just Google it?" Well yes, you can but sometimes there are stores that Google doesn't find or you can't remember the name of that one place that did 'X' product, etc. This also keeps it very focused on rotary related parts & as we all know they can be a special breed & are occasionally rare or hard-to-find. Please feel free to post more websites etc below (with the same kind of info as shown) & we can add them to this first post as time goes on. Same goes if you know of a link that doesn't work or a shop that's gone out of business, post up & the list will be updated. I would hope that it doesn't need to be said but just in case: these websites are not endorsed by IrishRotary nor have they necessarily been vetted/deemed legitimate (however any that we become aware of that are dodgy will be removed sharpish) - please keep your wits about you for your own sake when buying anything online or offline. In no particular order or preference/type & only grouped by major location: Ireland IrishRotary's own Traders selling a variety of products & services relevant to rotaries: http://irishrotary.com/forum/index.php?/forum/27-traders-sponsors/ Local Irish rotary mechanics/garages that may be able to supply new/used parts as well as labour: http://irishrotary.com/forum/index.php?/topic/10796-rotary-garages-mechanics-service-providers-list/ Japspeed - Aftermarket & self-branded parts: http://www.japspeed.ie/ Martin Cahill Dismantlers - Engines, used parts, etc in Ballyjamesduff Co. Cavan +353 49 8544 444: http://www.findapart.ie/Car_Parts_MAZDA_RX-8.html Mick's Garage - Aftermarket new parts & consumables including brakes, wheel bearings, etc: https://www.micksgarage.com/home UK Mazda Rotary Parts ('MRP') - New Genuine Mazda, OEM, & aftermarket parts store: http://www.mazdarotaryparts.com/ Racing Beat Europe (same company as MRP) - American 'Racing Beat' aftermarket products sold from the UK: http://www.racingbeateurope.com/ Pettit Racing UK - American 'Pettit Racing' aftermarket products (including supercharger kits) sold from the UK: http://www.pettitracing.co.uk/ Toyosports UK - Aftermarket parts including exhausts, manifolds, etc: http://www.toyosports.co.uk/ Rotary Revs - New Genuine Mazda, OEM, & aftermarket parts store uprated D585 & R969 Ignition Coil kits for RX8: http://www.rotaryrevs.com/ Auto-Electrics UK - Uprated Series 2/'R3' RX8 high-torque 'N3R3-18-400' 14-tooth starter motor (€155 plus postage of €12 approx.): http://stores.ebay.ie/Auto-Electrics-UK Triple B Engineering - New & used aftermarket performance parts, UK Dealer for 'Atkins Rotary' parts & Megasquirt ECUs +44 7411 267748: https://www.facebook.com/TripleBMotorsports/ White Horse Tools - Assorted tools for dismantling engine bays etc including "Bergen Clic R Type Pliers" for removing the retaining clips on the boost and vacuum lines: http://stores.ebay.co.uk/whitehorsetools/ Performance Motorsport Parts - New, aftermarket performance parts including a stainless steel MOT-friendly sports cat (decat pipe alternative) for RX8: http://stores.ebay.ie/performancediscs/ Ryan Rotary Performance - Genuine Mazda, self-branded & aftermarket parts store: https://www.ryanrotaryperformance.com/shop JP4mance Parts - Aftermarket parts including spark plugs: http://stores.ebay.ie/JP4mance-Tuning-Parts/MAZDA-/_i.html?_fsub=10071314 US Atkins Rotary - Mazda OEM & self-branded rotary engine internals (seals etc) & engine building tools: https://www.atkinsrotary.com/ Mazdatrix - New Mazda Genuine, OEM, & aftermarket parts store: https://www.mazdatrix.com/ Black Halo Racing ('BHR') - OEM, aftermarket & self-branded parts store including uprated D585 Ignition Coil kits for RX8: http://black-halo-racing.myshopify.com/ Rotary Aviation - Self-branded rotary engine internals (seals etc) & Oil Metering Pump (OMP) adapters: http://www.rotaryaviation.com/store/c1/Featured_Products.html Texas Rotary Experts ('T-Rex') - Aftermarket & self-branded parts including uprated D585 Ignition Coil kits for RX8: http://www.t-rexperts.com/ RX8 Performance - Aftermarket & self-branded parts including 13B-REW swap kits for RX8: http://www.rx8performance.com/ Elite Rotary Shop - Self-branded parts including 13B-REW swap kits for RX8: http://www.eliterotaryshop.com/ Detroit Muscle Technologies LLC - Aftermarket & self-branded products including uprated RX8 rear tail light gaskets: http://stores.ebay.ie/detroitmuscletechnologiesllc/ Japan RHD Japan - New Mazda Genuine, OEM, & aftermarket parts store: http://www.rhdjapan.com/ Nengun - New aftermarket parts store & auction site: http://www.nengun.com/ Super Autobacs - New aftermarket parts store: http://www.autobacs.com/static_html/shp/sa/index.html Autobacs Secohan - Used aftermarket parts store: https://secohan.autobacs.jp/ Upgarage / Croooober - New & Used aftermarket JDM parts store: http://www.upgarage.com/en/ & https://www.croooober.com/en/ Amayama - New Mazda Genuine, OEM parts store: https://www.amayama.com/en
  20. *** This page is currently a Work In Progress *** RX8 Buying Guide: http://irishrotary.com/forum/index.php?/topic/10706-rx8-buying-guide-by-dara-obrien-on-micks-garage/ RX8 - Once you've bought it: Originally taken from here & adapted for the Irish Domestic Market. Your first $100 with your previously loved RX8…Assuming it is not a new one, with a Mazda Warranty, There are several modifications that really helped with my 04 detailed in the next several posts. These are based on my first year with the car. All of them I wish I had done earlier. All of them I got from this forum. The hope is that you do not have to look as hard as I did and can get the benefits a bit earlier in your relationship. I tried to group them into collections that are easiest to do together, in a order that lets someone ease into work under the hood. In most cases, I tried to point to existing threads because they, for one, existed, and two were likely better than what I would have written. Some I had to write, not because I invented them, but because I combined ideas from several sources. I tried to organize them with a title, why you would want to do this, some benefits, and then a link to how to perform the modification. I print DIYs and keep them in a notebook in the garage. I would suggest printing the ones referenced here before you start the job. Optional Reading Assignment, if you are really interested in the 8. RIWWP has created a great place to start learning titled New and Potential Owners. Check it out at New and Potential Owners START HERE! - RX8Club.com Additional info, (thanks wcs, mazurfer): Because the rules say these posts have to have steps...Step 1, read the next post.Good Luck and Happy 8’ing![ Key Words to help make thread easier to find; Cooling System, Electrical Grounding, $100 Thread, First Modifications, First Mods, New Owner, Clean MAF, Fans On Low, Throttle Body Bypass, Oil Cooler Air Flow, A/C Reprogram ] Group 1, of the First $100.. Total investment, about $25. Time to mod, outside of shopping, about 2 hours tops. These modifications are minimally invasive, easy to start out with, and all provided me benefits.Step 1.5 [saw this one from mastiffkb][Added August 2014]Clean the battery terminals. No DIY provided. If you are not comfortable doing this, I do not recommend trying. But, clean power and ground solve lots of problems. Step 2Clean the MAF: Fixes rough idle, poor gas mileage, stallingFavorite DIY is Engine Light - 2096 Code - RX8Club.com On the MAF, the car "can" idle with a dirty MAF, just not as effectively. it is a little rough. If you add the compressor load, and the electrical load of the blower in the car, and the load of the radiator fans and whatever the AC clutch draws (probably not much), you are really trying to draw a lot of power at only 750 RPM. If air and fuel and spark are not just right, it can miss, or at least not burn the fuel right. You get your air data from the MAF, if it is off, then fuel is off, car runs like crap. It made such a difference I did all my cars. My daughter commented the next day that the 6 was running better.Step 3:Insulate A/C LinesFixes poor AC performanceFavorite DIY is DIY: Easy MOD for colder AC - RX8Club.comSuggestion is to hit Home Depot or Lowes, pick up the split black foam pipe insulation for 1/2 inch pipe. You want the kind that has adhesive on both sides of the split. Put it on, pull off the clear backing tapes, stick the two sides together. I did not use tie wraps or anything. It is holding together fine in 100 plus degree outside heat. The color blends well with the rest of the engine compartment. I did both lines.Step 4:AC Amplifier Re-ProgramHelps poor AC performance.Notes: Procedure states that it only changes the air source. Many have said that it does more than that. I used a temp gauge and saw lower temps after, as well as reduced A/C cycling. Best DIY is … looking for some help - RX8Club.com To save clicks, the basics are here: Verify ignition switch is in OFF position. Press and hold the front defrost and air intake selector buttons simultaneously. Turn the ignition key to the "ACC" position for 3 seconds. (Continue to hold the buttons down from step #3.) Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position for 3 seconds. (Continue to hold the buttons down from step #4.) Successful programming will be confirmed by the rear defrost indicator light flashing 3 times. NOTE: If vehicle's battery dies or cables are removed, the programming will not be retained and must be performed again. Step 5:Buy a long funnel for adding OilFixes oil in the: air filter, maf, throttle body, little resonator box, intake….Basically, when you change the oil in an 04, 05 or 06, use a funnel long enough to extend past the air line that comes off the oil fill line.Step 6:Vacuum the cabin air filter. Believe it or not, it can lower AC temps 1 to 2 degrees (measured) if the old one is dirty. I listed this as a clean it, use a vacuum with a soft brush on the end. This lets me keep it in the first $100. Use the DIY below to get it out and put it back in.Favorite DIY is cabin filter change??? whos done it - RX8Club.comStep 7Read the next Post Group 2 of the First $100. Total price here is about $50. You will want about 4 6 foot pieces of pipe insulation ($8) and a grounding kit (cheap ebay one, usually $30 with shipping) and a can of brake cleaner. These are also grouped to be done together. All of them want the air box and shelf out. Other than cutting the air box shelf, none of these are invasive. Step 8: Block Air Flow around Radiator, Direct Air through Radiator Fixes overheating, anything related to hot engine, poor AC performance I did not find a DIY here. And, I do not have any pictures of when I did it. Basically, with the air box out, shove the round pipe insulation into any gap around the radiator that exists. If anyone takes pictures of what this looks like, ideally while they do it, or has a procedure, please let me know. I searched and could not find one. {Edit 9/15.2013} Step 8.5 While the air box is out, it is easy to see the Eccentric Shaft Sensor. The thread below will help you recognize it, has pictures, and a drawing. tired of searching ess cleaning I would not pull it out. If you can see it, you can hit it with brake cleaner. Just blast it with Brake cleaner for several seconds (with a suitable catch pan like a cookie sheet under it to catch what runs off), it should be pretty clean afterwards. If not, repeat. I suggest some form of eye protection for this one. I filled both eyes with carb cleaner once, that sucked. If you need to reach in with a soft cloth, or with a soft brush to loosen stuff up, feel free to do that. There is another thread out there where someone tried to remove it and the bolt broke. That is why I advocate leaving it installed. Step 9: Grounding Kit Fixes rough idle, maybe some gas mileage, entire electrical is happier, stalling Best DIY is … my grounding kit results - Page 3 - RX8Club.com There will be several comments on this one that advocate a trip to Lowes or Home Depot for wire and connectors. There are several posts on the forum as well. I recommend searching and reading. There is a ton of knowledge. The benefits exist of both, I actually got some benefit from just adding a little electrical grease and a star washer to each joint, but bought and installed the kit anyway. You decide. I would get the kit, follow Jeff’s DIY, use star washers and grease. I do strongly recommend re-crimping the connectors from the cheap kits before you use them. Use a vice, big pliers, or a hammer. My kit did not have well crimped connectors. The vendor offered to exchange it and pay shipping both ways, but I had already repaired and installed. {EDIT 7/3/2012} Evidence is mounting that cleaning up grounds and adding the star washers is making a big difference. Grounding kit might be overkill. Maybe if a few try it and report back, we can save folks a few bucks. Step 10: Air Box Shelf Breather Holes. Provides more air flow through the radiator on the driver’s side. Favorite DIY is Air Box Ventilation - RX8Club.com Step 11: Read the Next Post Group 3 of the First $100. Total price here is about $15. That is for the hose splice connector and a short piece of 20 ga wire. The throttle body mod is invasive, you will see coolant, you will likely spill coolant. It is best to spill COLD coolant. The fan modification is invasive as well. However, this version does not require you to cut into your electrical system. If you have a disaster, you just need to get a new relay. Step 12:Throttle Body Heat Bypass [AKA Coolant Bypass], NOT screw in the hoseHelps poor performance in high tempsFavorite DIY is (in 3 pieces):DIY: Throttle body bypass mod - Page 9 - RX8Club.com DIY: Throttle body bypass mod - Page 9 - RX8Club.com DIY: Throttle body bypass mod - Page 9 - RX8Club.com and see DIY: Throttle body bypass mod - Page 10 - RX8Club.com for thoughts on the “screw” in hot weather. Step 13:Fans on LowHelps high engine compartment temps, poor AC performance. Need to be able to solder a wire.Favorite DIY DIY: Radiator Fan Switch... - RX8Club.comStep 13.5Suggested add from SayNoToPistons, Mod from Ash8Increases air flow through oil cooler(s). An alternative approach is to use a utility knife with a new blade.Favorite DIY is DIY: Improve OIL Cooler Air Flow Up to 10-15% - RX8Club.com Step 14, [added October 2013, yeah gov slim down]Clean the SSV. Step 14.9:Read the next post.Zoom Freaking Zoom Group 4, outside of the First $100. Step 15:Coils and PlugsFixes flooding, poor idle, stalling, squished bird sound under the hood if it is still there after the First $100 list.Favorite Plug DIY is DIY: Spark Plug Change.Favorite Coil DIY is DIY: Mazda Ignition Coils (with pics) At this point, I have a 2004 RX8 that idles smoothly, in traffic, in 99 degree weather, with the AC on blowing cold (52 to 54 degree air). I sat in a parking lot in 100 degree heat and idled for 20 minutes as a test waiting on my kid to get out of a test. Car also pulls much stronger, especially above 6,000. Starts great, and can be started, moved and stopped without flooding. I picked up a few MPG over the year as well.Zoom On.
  21. I did not find an online guide to repair of central locking on a Mazda RX8 so I said I would create one here. It seems to be somewhat common for the central locking to fail on the Mazda RX8, but it can be fixed. There are 3 main steps: 1) Identify what is at fault 2) Get matching replacement parts 3) Install the replacement parts and test Step 1) If your remote control is not unlocking the doors, there are a number of reasons. Note this debug guide only applies to the RX8 with the 4 button fob, not other keyless entry or RX8 without remote unlocking. i) Check does a spare remote unlock/lock the car, if you have one. It may just be a flat battery in the remote ii) Check if there is a red light in the middle of the lock and unlock buttons on the remote when you try to lock or unlock, again this can identify a weak remote. There is a battery inside which can be replaced. See guides online. iii) Even with a remote that lights up, it may need to be programmed to work with the car, unlikely, but it may have never worked. See online guides for RX8/Mazda remote programming guides iv) If you use the key to lock and unlock the main drivers door, does the passenger door lock and unlock, if it does, then the locks on the doors are OK, the problem is with the remote control keyfob or programming. v) Does the courtesy light come on when you open the doors (it can be turned off at the roof). If it does not come on when you open each door and close each door, then the system will get confused and refuse to lock the doors. Check the roof light/door open switch is OK before assuming the locks are faulty. The system needs to know the doors are properly closed before it will attempt to lock them. vi) Sit in the car with the doors closed and try to press the switch on the drivers inside door to lock the drivers door. Does the passenger side switch 'twitch' or slightly attempt to lock. If so this is a near sure sign the passenger lock is worn and will need to be replaced. Try the same using the remote and see does the drivers door inside switch twitch. In my case the passenger door twitched and the drivers door seemed unresponsive. The cure was replacing both locks. Another thing to check is to close both door switches when inside the car, then using the remote attempt to lock the car. You should get both orange indicator lights flashing and the car intruder alarm will start to arm. This indicates the car attempted to lock, found both doors were already locked and is now arming the intruder alarm. This further indicates the locks themselves are worn, but the remote is OK vii) Note the central locking system has its own computer. In some cases people needed to replace this unit as it was faulty. I do not cover this here: 2) This guide is aimed at solving 'twitching' inside switches or non responsive doors, where the fault is the central locking motor system itself. If you feel you are not up to the job then get a professional to look at it. My car was only 9 years old and both doors had this problem, so they seem to fail early or there was a large batch of unreliable units. To source parts look on ebay. Also contact nearby scrap yards as many of these do not list online. You could buy replacements directly from Mazda, but I suspect the cost would be much higher, and if they fail again, you can use the key to unlock the car. The actual part that wears is inside a sealed plastic welded part so there is no real way to repair it, just replace it. There are lots of RX8s being scrapped so there should be cheap parts available. When ordering the locks try to get as much as possible, such as the cables to the inside door handle and the inside door handle itself, and the bars that link to the outside handle. This will make life easier later. NOTE the drivers lock is DIFFERENT to the passenger side SO DO NOT ORDER FROM USA to EU and vice versa, as left hand drive locks are not the same as right hand drive locks. 3) Now you have the parts you think you need, it is vital you plan ahead. You can easily lock yourself out of the car, or end up with an un-drive-able car as the door wont shut or open. If both doors need to be fixed, only work on one at a time, and start first thing in the morning, giving a full day in case of problems. It might seem like a quick job, but it could take your many hours. Basic precautions: i) unlock both doors, and keep them unlocked to prevent you locking yourself out ii) turn off curtsy lights to prevent the battery draining due to leaving the lights on all day iii) Do not wind down the windows, as the glass will block the inside of the door iiii) Make sure you have a good socket set and screwdrivers and a helper to assist. A good light may help too. iv) Assuming the left hand passenger door, open the door and keep it open from now on. Remove the door panel as shown in this youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mP4Wt1YzASQ Remember to keep all the parts safe in a cup or similar. DO NOT REMOVE THE SCREWS FOR THE WINDOW MOTOR. This is the key step to make sure everything does not start coming apart. It is just possible to replace the lock without removing the electric window motor. If you do end up removing those screws, the whole thing can come apart, with glass falling into the door etc. You may need a specialist at this point, if you have removed the electric window motor and have problems. You may way to disconnect most or all the electrical connectors at this point. You may be able to test the replacement lock if the door thinks it is closed and the new lock is electrically connected instead. I did not do this myself. After removing most of the door panels, you can now remove the screws holding in the lock at the end of the door. This enables the lock to be removed. You also need to disconnect the cables to the outside door handle. There is one bar for the handle, and another for the key (if drivers side). If you are working on the drivers side there is a metal cover that prevents someone opening the door by sticking something down beside the glass. This need to be removed also. Once the cables to the door handle are removed and the bolts holding the lock in place are removed, you should remove the inside door handle and remove the entire lock with the inside door handle complete. This will allow you to not mix anything up and re-install easily. Then all you need to do is carefully refit everything and test. Let me know any other advice you may have for a trouble free replacement.
  22. Hi all, I'm completely new to the whole JDM scene, let alone rotary engines - so please be gentle with me I've spent the last few months toying with the idea of buying an RX-8 with the intention of bringing it to track days and learning the inner workings of these beasts. I'm hoping to buy an RX-8 this coming Friday (the 26th of May) and was wondering if there is anyone in the south east that would be able to do a compression test for me, as I don't have the tools or knowledge to do so myself. If so then how much would you charge to do this black magic?
  23. Hi all you rotary people out there. Got my 1st rotary car. RX8 Touring 192 model. I am really exited with it. I can stop looking at it and just sit in it and finding any excuse to drive it. I hope to pick you guys's brain for any tips and tricks on maintaining her and getting the best mods for her. Keep the rotors spinning
  24. Hi all Thought I'd pop my RX8 on here before putting it up on donedeal 2005 190BHP NCTed up to July 2018 39k miles\63k Km 2 Owners Car is in decent condition but there are some issues be aware of Coolant sensor needs replacing Some bodywork issues Occasional issues with hot starts. I've had a compression test done and the results are ok, so it looks like a new starter may be needed Price is negotiable If interested message me at marksheridan1975@gmail.com Mark
  25. Sadly selling my beloved RX8 as the baby needs more space in the back €3750 for a great example, winning blue, aero kit, solid engine, sills done etc. https://www.donedeal.ie/view/16189620
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