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laned3 last won the day on December 5 2017

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About laned3

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  • Birthday 03/27/1986

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    Boxing, swimming, hiking.

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  1. A drill and easy out should sort that. If its only plastic a drill might be enough. Or you could try screwing the shank up into the radiator, disconnect the lower cooling pipe and flush it out. Sounds like you might have a doner radiator there aswell. Goodluck
  2. http://www.j-auto.net https://www.marks-engineering.com/collections/clearance-stock Dust seals and snap rings cost extra and probably only needed for replacing damaged ones on the pillowballs. Can be got at your local Mazda if needed.
  3. 350 is a great price for all the bushings. For the pillowball bushings I'd go j-auto or marks engineering. Marks engineering use aluminium which will shave a tiny bit of weight off your unsprung weight. Both use ptfe or teflon which is self lubricating and they should easily outlast the oem ones. It's hard to justify the oem ones which are more expensive and don't last. If a squeak which has slowly been turning into a knock from my left pillowballs so that will need tackling in the new year.
  4. Not sure what turbo you are using but il guess it flows a lot more than the stock turbos. At 12 psi where the stock turbo would have enough fuel, a single turbo setup with a less restrictive exhaust manifold will max out the injectors causing lean conditions. Idealy you dont want injector duty above 90% max which you cant monitor on stock ecu. The ecu will also be trying to control boost to under 10 psi so there might be issues there. Safest bet would be to use the 8 psi spring and run boost at spring pressure and hardwired the fuel pump if not already done. With a ported engine and less restrictive exhaust and a turbo flowing higher cfm than stock at same boost the best thing is to run it off boost til you get an aftermarket ecu and mapped correctly. I assume you are on stock injectors with the ecu.
  5. 2001 FD €456 Through Autoline underwritten by Allianz. Classic policy with 3000 mile limit. I mentioned Irish rotary and it seemed to bring it down from €500 which I had been previously quoted a few months before. That's a saving of about a grand th is year going to classic from my main policy with full no claims bonus. Although I hadn't bothered ringing around.
  6. Solid work you're doing there. Will be satisfying to get it rolling under it's own power after all that work.
  7. Yes I think kernelpanic had mentioned that one to me. Pretty cool the way you could have a 91 FD and a 92 FC in your garage.
  8. Below are links for the different JDM FD3S RX7's throughout its production run. The sale date is when production commenced on that particular model. And the end of production date can usually be derived from the production date of the same model in the next version. Here is the link to the Efini RX7, versions 1, 2 and 3 or Series 6 as they are better known. http://www.goo-net-exchange.com/catalog/MAZDA__EFINI_RX7/ Mazda dropped the Efini nomenclature across their model range half way through production where it became the Mazda RX7. Here are the Series 7 - Version 4, and Series 8 - Version 5 and 6. http://www.goo-net-exchange.com/catalog/MAZDA__RX7/ In the links you can find the specs for all Mazda models for anyone looking for Series 1 to 5 or RX8 etc, Feel free to add to it or point out any mistakes I have made and edit it accordingly.
  9. When the FD was on the VRT calculator it used to come in about €1450. They took it off over a year ago and pepole on here were getting quotes from 2K to around 2.5K. I think most successfully appealed it and got some money back. For the latest wave of crazy calculations of 4K they have come out with, maybe its best to see how the one mentioned above gets on with their appeal before buying. I'd be surprised if they did distinguish between series and charge more for a 01 as they haven't done before but maybe they have wised up. I can see a number of Fd's floating around the country unregistered in a few years time because of this. Would be nice to see another one in the county though.
  10. Bi-annual bump. 15% off castrol oil when you use code NOVEMBER. Its coming in at 52.68 euro for 10l of 15w40 delivered. Just in time for my pre winter service. https://www.micksgarage.com/d/engine-oils-and-lubricants/products/1457475/castrol-gtx-15w40-a3-b3-semi-synthetic-engine-oil-5-litre https://www.micksgarage.com/d/engine-oils-and-lubricants/products/1457478/castrol-gtx-10w40-a3-b4-semi-synthetic-engine-oil-5-litre
  11. As @Bradyy said it sounds like it's on one rotor, get a video of it idling we would be sable to tell more. It looks like it's burning oil to me or possible running rich as jp mentioned. Check the intake pipes and intercooler for excessive oil that might point to the turbo beeping the problem. Coolant seal failure would produce white smoke and run on one rotor initially until the second rotor clears the coolant out. I know that from experience . Ud also be able to tell if there is coolant on your plugs instead of fuel. How much coolant are u losing? On a FD the coolant will typically sit towards the bottom of the filler neck. If you keep topping it up to the top it will push the excess coolant into the overflow tank. And after running the car give it time to suck the coolant back into the system before opening the cap. As mentioned champagne test and compression test will help. A regular compression tester with the Schrader valve removed is good enough to diagnose if the rotors are making compression or not.
  12. Cool I never knew that, and they ended up with one of the worst engines in history in the delorean. Just reading about the one in america now
  13. Sailed through another NCT. He didn't even test emissions this time and accidently printed my cert . Had adjusted my R/H headlight just before it but thankfully it passed at 1.6 and the left spot on at 1.3.
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