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Dentist

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Everything posted by Dentist

  1. PCV upgrade from inactive to active aka post 06 model. Method A : You need to source vacuum chamber/ oil filler neck and Y pipes from other engine. On Left is per 06 models which only have one house concoction to throttlebody accordion elbow and on Right post 06 which have active air circulation, taking MAF ed fresh air from accordion elbow and exhausted it through filler neck port to acc port/ primary port vacuum nipples. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...d813c7c89b.jpg Left per 06 and right post 06 https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...c81f9f4621.jpg Filler neck id is way smaller in post 06 Drill bits illustrates id difference between them, although, Mazda went to active PVC, still used inferior design of orifice PCV valve instead of using proper flow valve. I will photograph my PVC valve setup and oil catch can. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...3a0b57b545.jpg per 06 https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...6344abeccd.jpg In post 06 air inlet is added https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...df493d7c24.jpg L per06 and R post06 Method B : using a office on oil filler neck exit with Y pipe towards acc ports. Fresh meter air after MAF entrance via dip steak pipe :d https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...40efd4cc84.jpg Red arrows drain of PCV and Green/ yellow entrance of fresh air. Lastly, I use mx-5 PCV valve and I have to say it was wrong option as it doesn't doing its job specially on idle flow reduction. VW pcv valves are better in term of functionality. PVC valve sit on way to acc ports on primary ports. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...c0a06b71a0.jpg ms-5 PCV valve Oil catch can between oil filler neck and acc ports. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...cfc74a67a8.jpg Yellow arrows toward oil catch can Red's to acc ports
  2. How to remove mirror. Some future ideas for others.
  3. Ever since I moved to UK two things bugging me, 1st, interent speed 2nd, GPS accuracy. I was living in Hungary for 9 years and GPS accuracy was like 1 meter with life direction and no disconnection, probably it increase my standards internet speed and price was better in any measurable factor. Cut to chase, the front windshields in general could attenuate GPS signal, due to be laminated or UV protectors. However, back windshield won't, and thats reason most of OEM GPS antenna's are located in back shelf or even best place on roof. kit by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr So, I purchase this simple kit and put it to test. I have to say I am totally surprise by outcome. I located the kit receiver antenna on factory mount plate on back shelf, car with factory sat nav equipped have it here. Note, the GPS antenna must be attached to metal plate as it use as antenna to increase its efficiency. Then, route wire from central console toward front of dash, where it connected to repeater antenna and get ACC + from usb socket. Again mount antenne on metal bar of dash. IMG_6841 by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr IMG_6842 by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr IMG_6843 by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr beforeaftergps by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr Here you can see comparison before and after. This method works for any GPS need in the car like my Nexus conversion as well as my phone. Other option were like USB antenna for Nexus or Bluetooth GPS antenna.
  4. Pins dia IMG_6834 by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr Second obdii female socket IMG_7013 by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr IMG_7012 by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr IMG_7014 by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr Final view IMG_7025 by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr IMG_7027 by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr
  5. Mirror element back planing IMG_6815 by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr IMG_6803 by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr Pins IG GND REV 0+ 0- IMG_6805 by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr Shaved mirror element IMG_6821 by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr IMG_6824 by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr IMG_6825 by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr Housing mating and fitting, as dentist I had stable hands with shaft 3mm IMG_6822 by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr No filler used, only epoxy glue IMG_6823 by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr IMG_6829 by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr Gauge control multi function key IMG_6831 by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr
  6. Gntx187 ball mount is 0.25mm smaller IMG_6817 by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr Inside of middle joint pipe is a strong spring IMG_6818 by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr How to compress spring IMG_6819 by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr IMG_6820 by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr
  7. IMG_6788 by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr Gentex 187 this one is ebay buy from Nissan Murano On the bottom Donnelly 240 the rx8 oem mirror, note the mount difference. IMG_6793 by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr
  8. Final product, main display sets to engine coolant temp, bottom left battery volt, bottom right MAF, bottom most MPEG and top most shift light. Back lights set to Red theme. Gauge it self has auto adjust light control.
  9. Factory mirror is very basic and I was bout putting gauges in it, at begging I shaved the bezel and change it to frames extra slim. However, I wasn't satisfy as I was about altering everything and, a decent auto dim mirror is as low as 10-15 Euro. I chose Gentex 187 for few reasons, it has good ball joint size for retro fitting, it has classic mirror coats in the back unlike others which are sandwiched silver between glass, whereas, classic mirror coats means, silver layer on back of glass, covered by copper layer, one layer of iron paint and final Gray paint cover So, I just need to scratch all paints and removed metal layers, silver + copper. Easy, out line the screen size which in my case was display of 28mm * 28mm (1.6'' generic oled's) To remove metal parts use toilet cleaner the one with acidic ingredient, if want can post name Fitting gauge housing in to mirror case, casing it self needs modification to let elec board goes deeper. Use epoxy to secure them. My gauge of chose is AUTOOL X60 as it has reasonable price and what I was looking for. There are so many septs which I have to skip, if something is unclear kindly ask. Alright, now we need to scavenge oem mirror mount and fit it to Gentex-187, you have to make sharp bend on the mirror joint to pop out balljoint or use a 11mm flat wrench as leverage on both mirrors, then push back the oem balljoint onto the gntx-187. I found safest and easiest way to use badass pipe wrench. Wiring, first look after X-13 and search for factory wires whether you have it or they are absent, Black/ yellow wires. the auto dim is simple, IGN to Ig1 or Ig2 from ignition switch on the left of car you can hock it to Blue/whit wire of blower with 10amp fuse. GND to ground via a screw and REV is revers signal to un-dim when you are reversing which the most complicating one ! there are three Red/ yellow on wiring loom on sill, one of the is our wire try them or go to X-07 on the left side of socket. Other two 0+ and 0- are useless as they are signal for side auto dim mirrors. Wiring gauge, you need Left turn USB 3.0 50cm A type for back of mirror and a obdii extra female socket to joint the existing obdii socket under dash. on new socket short two negative/chassis/ signal as it doesn't matter to gauge. wire Blue/ red to ignition. Note, the factory socket has Battery on this wire and useless for us. rest of wires same to car female socket. I will link pics from my filker.
  10. Final teaser IMG_6742 by Hans Delgosha, on Flickr
  11. Since my personal website wont be ready soon, I will pot few topics here. It is rare happing for me to have my mobile in my pocket these days as this pandemic covid19 getting wild. However, the other day when I was doing other stuff it happen to having my mobile handy and I take this pics and I believe this neglected area of rx8's. As far I know per 2006 have different sound isolation in gearbox tunnel and even the cup holders gets better heat isolation later. The 8's have 3 gaiters, most superficial one is mostly a cometic boot, middle one is real deal gaiter which is bolted and lastly deepest one is insulator for wind. Thing I did double the isolator and used other one upside-down. To do this you need to cut upper part with a scissor, to become like right side pic. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1WpnZpEAwkHeGIIBwO74nM1oBhwXyi3pt And, now fit cut one it upside down, Don't forget to add grease to hinge ball of stick. https://drive.google.com/open?id=18pCbLiTJdI2u4uSJ_D-zJL7tgvMEPayS Work it all around inside to become like this : https://drive.google.com/open?id=10io-gDtIWN0iOG6-r1SdJO-9NyMMuK_Z Work with help of long nose plier pull back the middle section a dab inside : https://drive.google.com/open?id=1AekYovELshm9_P9FpW8QdpeCFWL7w-oa It is advisable to replace the self adhesive part of 2nd isolator with quality double sided tape : https://drive.google.com/open?id=18mSFFZaHgRIHLl5xfPIrBc3_a3zcL-xw Now its time to utilise some thin layer of available sound dampening. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pLEsUTUUEaJqy_p9_XwOzqz8y59-CcN8 https://drive.google.com/open?id=17Z0Vbl_RChMHNLFXqktebRgo2LE4dEDn https://drive.google.com/open?id=19T8iAXE_OevTmieugUa--U2Xc0_krAFi https://drive.google.com/open?id=1zy5JxwPrY38w_6tuuJK922sFvINRS0-h https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ni1Fk6uzFW7hKLamEIzVloJ9tlA2Cvej https://drive.google.com/open?id=1XXwiuyC22Kf2dMpB75Jlafwt_blZMgLl https://drive.google.com/open?id=1eXeM3AMVpyPm5CNu-w6oHBUdIVF1IKtA I found this shitty Poundland anti skid locally available. Its a thin layer of self adhesive carpet. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1JG6rgxovPqpxjMBiEZP5BTYTtxYLfGM7 Lastly put back the main gaiter and fasten nuts, lay down factory felt https://drive.google.com/open?id=1i_e1wgJLZK3ISa5UWXtj2TvGF04Ao7nk
  12. SSV might be faulty, normally the solenoid goes bad and wont open vacuums line. the EU models, per 2006 dosen't have the ssv feedback switch so, they wont show fault on ecu. However, I had personal experience with faulty ssv on several rx8's which all rev fine to 9000! the symptom was sluggish acceleration. Put car in limp mode by unplug MAF sensor while car is running, and let it run without it. If become happier and rev fine then there something wrong with MAF. Unplug every other second coils (trailer/ top) sand see if any thing change ? There so many useful shortcut but it not possible to doing them over net :0 good luck
  13. Interesting! http://www.ehdex.com/Floatless_Coolant_Sensor.html " 2003-2011 Mazda RX-8 Floatless Coolant Level Sensor Kit Having the coolant low level warning light illuminated is a common problem on the RX-8. The coolant level sensor float in the coolant reservoir tank is deteriorated and absorbs coolant. The float gets heavy, and sinks, causing the the coolant low level warning light to come on. The solution is to get the coolant reservoir tank replace, as the sensor is built-in to the tank. However, the problem may come back sooner than expected. Another popular solution is to disconnect the sensor connector and check the coolant level frequently. But if there's a major leak while driving, the engine will get overheated pretty fast. As we know, overheating a Renesis is fatal to the engine. Here we have an alternative permanent solution to replace the sensor without replacing the tank. Using conductive level sensor technology to detect coolant level. When the coolant level falls below the preset level, breaking the conductive circuit, the sensor module will provide a signal to the original sensor connector causing the coolant low level warning or "bird cage" light (located in the dashboard meter) to illuminate. Kit Contents - Floatless Level Sensor Interface Module - Sensor Electrodes - Wire Harness with Fuse and Grounding Cable Lug - Cable Ties - Installation Guide "
  14. Oh thats seems be complex problem. do you know how to log with Torque ? Or could read MAf g/s in idle and long short fuel trims
  15. any reading/ number form obdi port ?
  16. Any one done this ? source http://openhoonage.com/cluster-commander/6-rx8-cluster-commander Cluster Commander Firmware http://openhoonage.com/cluster-commander/7-firmware RX8 Version Release Date Release Notes 1.01 2/16/2018 Added 06-09 E38 ECM Support Improved VIN request Improved Odometer Accuracy Added Tach Scaling Added User-Settable Shift Buzzer Repurposed Low Oil Reservoir light for Low Oil Pressure Repurposed Low Coolant light for Very High Coolant Temperature 1.00 6/1/2017 Initial Release link http://openhoonage.com/firmware/rx8/rx8_cc_firmware_101.zip The RX8 Cluster Commander is a circuit used to translate the GM canbus data stream (commonly referred to as GMLAN) to the Mazda instrument cluster. It uses two separate canbus interfaces to translate the data between the two. The interface that's connected to the GM side only listens, meaning that you can perform ECM reflashes via HP Tuners or EFI Live without needing to disconnect the Cluster Commander from the network. The cluster commander has full control of the Tachometer, Odometer, Speedometer, Check Engine light, Oil and Coolant gauges. There are a few limitations to be aware of with the OEM gauge cluster. OEM Limitations Oil pressure gauge is faux-analog. Though it moves based upon RPM and Coolant temp, the input is an on/off signal. Coolant gauge is similarly faux-analog. It has a Low/Medium/High setting, and is very slow to move. TCS, DCS, TPMS, Security Warning Lights are disabled. Features Updateable Firmware - Any bugs that show up can be fixed with a reflash. Speedometer fine tuning - Speed is read via the GM ECM, and can be adjusted without needing HPTuners or EFI Live. Odometer fine tuning - Similarly, can improve odometer accuracy without needing a ECM reflash. Voltage Monitoring - Will turn on the Battery Lamp if voltage is below a threshold fore more than 3 seconds (Default: 12.6v) Check Engine Light Functionality - Reads the GM's MIL lamp wire and illuminates the Check Engine light on the cluster. Oil pressure table - User editable truth table with 500 RPM resolution to make sure your oil pressure is good everywhere. Coolant table - User settable Low/Medium/High ranges (Default: 160°F and 220°F). Installation The most convenient place to install the cluster commander is behind the cluster itself. To gain access, you'll need to remove the steering column trim (3 screws from the bottom side), then remove the gauge hood (held in place by 4 plastic pins - be careful to lift directly upwards). The instrument cluster is held in place with 3 screws and a clip that holds the wiring in place. To free the harness, twist the clip 90 degrees and then remove the 2 connectors from the rear of the cluster. A disassembly diagram can be found online. You'll need to run 3 wires from the GM ECM to this location two for CAN and one for the check engine lamp. There are two connectors on the back of the cluster - a large one and a smaller one. On the smaller one, strip back a few inches the harness tape to expose the wires - we won't be tapping any of the wires from the larger connector. We're looking for 5 wires in the small harness. CC Harness Function Pin Wire Color Red Switched 12v 1G Black/Yellow White MIL Input From ECM Brown/White Green No Connection * * Blue CANBus High 1J Blue Brown CANBus Low 1L Green/Black Yellow GM CANBus High From ECM Tan/Black Gray GM CANBus Low From ECM Tan Black Ground 1E Black Three of the wires - Oil Pressure, CAN High and CAN Low are going to be cut and spliced into the circuit. Cut the wire far enough away from the connector leave enough space to comfortably fit a crimper. Power and Ground (1A and 1G) will be tapped and spliced to provide power to the circuit. If you're using a butt splice, cut, strip and twist the wires together into one side of the crimp to tap. There are 8 wires to connect - A pair of CAN wires for the Mazda and GM side (each), the oil pressure switch to the instrument cluster, and the Malfunction Indication Lamp (MIL/Check Engine) from the ECM. GM Canbus wires can be taken from the OBDII Port (if already wired to inside the cabin). The MIL lamp wire will need to be extended to the dash, check your wiring documentation for details. Red - 12V connected to switched power, like 1G above. White - MIL lamp input. Green - Oil Gauge output - to 1H (Light Green). Blue - Mazda Canbus High - to 1J (Lavender). Brown - Mazda Canbus Low - to 1L (Green/Black). Yellow - GM Canbus High to the ECM - Tan with a Black stripe. Usually twisted around the Low wire. Gray - GM Canbus Low to the ECM - Tan. Usually twisted around the High wire. Black - Connect to 1A on the instrument cluster. The circuit enclosure box is built with handles that make it easily zip-tied out of the way behind the gauge hood. It's recommended to leave the gauge hood and column trim off until everything appears to be working. Wiring Scotchlock vs. Crimp vs. Solder in automotive applications is a long debated topic. In my own experience I will say that I prefer a good crimp over a crappy solder, and shame upon anyone that strips and twists wires together with electrical tape. Since the wires in the OEM cluster are thin 22awg wires, I've begun including 3M Scotchlock connectors in the kit to help connecting the box into the wiring. CANbus is very resilient to noise and forgiving in an automotive environment. Software Setup Cluster Commander doesn't require any additional setup to work - it's already populated with default values for that work well. The defaults are set for the LFX - the only major difference in settings from the LFX and the LSx engine is the oil pressure gauge. (todo details). Assuming your Speedometer and Odometer settings from your ECM are good, no further setup is required. Connecting Remove the two screws on the enclosure - this will expose the micro USB slot. (todo photos) Serial Port Selection The board uses the FTDI USB to Serial adapter for communication. This is a very common USB Serial converter that most operating systems have drivers built in for - but just in case, drivers can be installed from http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm. Once the driver is installed, the next step is to determine which COM port address has been assigned. To do this in windows - go to Control Panel - Device Manager - expand "Ports - COM & LPT" - and take note of any port numbers listed. In this example the COM Port is 4. If there are multiple ports listed, disconnect the USB cable for 10 seconds and take note of which port disappears, then reconnect. Serial terminal Now that we know our COM port the next step is to install a Serial Terminal - if you're computer savvy, any terminal will do. PuTTY is free application that works extremely well. You can download it here. Once installed, open the application and select "Serial" - Change the Serial Line to the COM port noted above. Baud rate defaults to 9600. Menus Most of the menus are straightforward (and options may change as the firmware evolves). Each letter surrounded by a parentheses is a menu option. If you are connecting to the circuit while the cluster is connected and powered you can manipulate the instrument cluster with the first section. The second section relates to settings that will need to be saved with the "(W)rite to EEPROM" option. Display VIN and Display Registers are used for troubleshooting purposes. Oil Pressure Different GM motors have different oil pressure requirements. We can view the Oil Pressure table. If the oil pressure is higher than the value listed then we simulate the oil pressure switch as closed and "good". Each value is good until the next RPM listed - so "0" is good until "500" rpm, and so on, until 7000 RPM. This gives us a better idea of oil pressure throughout the RPM range. The stock gauge has 4 "states" that tie into the engine temperature as well - so while the engine temperature is "cold" the oil pressure simulates higher than it does at "medium". If the engine is "hot" the oil pressure gauge barely moves at all - most likely to try and grab your attention. But lets be frank - the classic mechanical gauge has it's place for both reliability and information. Oil Floor Almost all electrical sensors have "float" - a little bit of noise in the signal that prevents a static pressure from reading as truly 0 - either from ground offset, wire splicing, or sensor variance. To try and present the most accurate information possible we can subtract this static value from our oil pressure calculation. This is not completely necessary to do - it's often less than half a PSI of oil pressure difference. With the engine off and cold, enter the Oil Pressure menu and press O and then D. The commander will display the oil pressure directly from the ECM for 5 seconds. Once you have this value, press E and enter it. This value will be subtracted from all oil pressure calculations. Coolant The OEM cluster has 3 settings - Low, Medium and High. Here we can set the thresholds for each setting - although the stock temperature thresholds at 160 and 220 are fairly universal. GM engines tend to run a little hotter due to their reverse coolant flow and sensor location. Speedometer Calibration Changed rear tire size? Changed differential ratio after setting up your ECM? Using this menu will help reset your speedometer to be accurate. On a long flat stretch of highway with a good GPS, make note of what your GPS speed is and what your instrument cluster reports. Enter these values into the menu and a simple percentage adjustment will be applied across all incoming VSS speeds from the ECM. GPS This is a last-ditch option to get the speedometer working. Using a GPS as a speed source is generally inadvisable. A ECM-driven VSS will respond much quicker, won't have any problems locking on in bad weather, and doesn't care about terrain. Plus more advanced ECM's like the E39 there are a number of fueling options that depend on a valid VSS signal. Contact me for more details on how to connect a GPS to the circuit. Updating Firmware All units ship with the most recent firmware available. Download and extract the zip to a directory. With the board connected, click on "RunMe". A window will pop up and display the current com ports - select the one for the Cluster Commander and hit enter. After hitting enter, the flash process will commence. If any errors occur during this process, let us know. After completing, it's generally a good idea to connect to the Cluster Commander and doublecheck your saved settings. It may be necessary to Load the default values and re-enter your changes. Troubleshooting There are really only three ways for the circuit to fail - it cannot read the GM ECM, it can't output to the cluster, or the circuit itself is not receiving power. Status LED The status LED is used to quickly verify communication between the ECM and the Cluster Commander without needing to hook up a computer. Communication from the instrument cluster to the Cluster Commander should be readily apparent - when powered, most of the error lamps will light up. With the cluster commander powered up the status LED with blink - this verifies that the cluster commander is receiving power. When the light turns solid it is receiving data from the GM ECM. VIN With the laptop hooked up and menu system entered, you can hit the "V" key and after a few seconds the ECM will returned the VIN. If the ECM times out, try to pull the VIN again and verify the ECM is receiving power (key on, engine off). If the ECM still doesn't reply, double check your CANH and CANL wires with a multimeter, using a paperclip in the Cluster Commanders harness to the ECM Harness. Registers If there doesn't appear to be any communication with the GM ECM, the next step is to read the registers from the CAN interface. If the registers do not match the information below, contact me for additional troubleshooting steps or an RMA. <todo register output> Legalese I understand how easily a simple engine swap project that was only supposed to take 3 months working weekends can expand to a year or longer. If you have any issue with your purchase, contact me and we'll try and get something sorted out. Disclaimer Openhoonage LLC make no representations or warranties of any type with respect to the contents in this manual. Openhoonage LLC disclaim any implied warranties or fitness for any particular purpose. Openhoonage LLC is not liable for any errors contained within or for incidental or consequential damages in connection with the supply, performance or use of the hardware and software or this manual. Openhoonage LLC reserve the right to revise this installation and user manual at any time, without obligation to notify any person of revisions. Warranty Openhoonage LLC make every effort to insure our products and services are of the highest quality and standards. It is our intention to maintain a mutually beneficial and cordial relationship with each and every customer. Openhoonage LLC warrants all merchandise manufactured by Openhoonage LLC against defects in workmanship or material for a period of two years after the data of purchase. This warranty applies to the first retail purchaser and covers only those products exposed to normal use or service. It does not apply to those products used for a purpose for which said products were not designed, or which has been altered in any way that would be detrimental to the performance or life of the product, or misapplication, misuse, negligence, or accident. Any part or product found to be defective after examination by Openhoonage LLC will be repaired or replaced. Openhoonage LLC assumes no responsibility for diagnosis, removal and/or installation labor, loss of vehicle use, loss of time, inconvenience or any other consequential expenses. This warranty is in lieu of any other expressed or implied warranties, including any implied warranty or merchantability or fitness, and any other obligation on the part of Openhoonage LLC or selling dealer.
  17. spray silicon inside brake calliper boots for seized piston. had judder in 50mph. in uk they should use Alloy pistons !
  18. Hi Any experience for modifying oil pressure regulator spring ? according to my measurements the OEM spring open relive valve by almost 10 kg / 100N on equation 63 psi in order to make pressure 90 psi we need 14kg spring
  19. Dentist

    Hiya !

    yes sir rx8 05 plat with some mods
  20. the problem with your assumption is two parts, firstly this graph is not official and traced by other user from the black/ white Mazda papers Secondly Mazda never announce any number for above 300 RPM. the pressure number and RPM are proportional till one point, after the static pressure wont be changed that much. ( for example my starter is +350 RPM and always losing number on reading with correction factor on tester itself or online) edit graph added
  21. Dentist

    Hiya !

    Hi My name is Hossein/ Hans and I am Virgo. Fully qualified mechanic with two degree's and long list of crazy job from simple MOT to head of mechanic maintenance offshore oil platform, good old days! Fully qualified dentist D.M.D new to this forum however well aged on virtual world. cheers
  22. From day 1 I bought my rx8 I've planed this hybrid built ! very pleased to see your progress. Essex rotary told me " I have to use first generation housing "
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