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gl last won the day on March 3

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  1. Replaced both front strut mount bushings, fixed a horrible rattle at low speed/uneven ground.
  2. Is this your car? just copped these pics that I found online years ago
  3. Nicely put Welcome to the forum
  4. gl

    Hiya !

    Welcome Are you driving a rotary yet?
  5. Nice 1 Nico Just to add I've attached the cad file here which has everything drawn to scale, this is what I sent the company to cut out the baffles and can be used to measure pipe lengths etc. One of the baffles in each box (rb3 and lb3) needed an extra hole cut to allow airflow between chambers 2 and 3, this could have been done at the cutting stage. Pipes used were 45mm and 57mm. jcebasic2final.dwg
  6. And finally fitted, all lined up pretty nicely, no leaks at flanges, all gasses appear to be going where they should. Butterfly valves yet to be tested.
  7. In the meantime I had been on the hunt for somebody who could weld the boxes up for me. A name came highly recommended and I brought all my bits to him. He made his own jig and welded all the bits together for me. Fast forward a considerable amount of time and this was done, mockup no.1 ready for inspection. Some extra steel was removed from baffle no.3 to aid flow between sections 2 and 3. The sheet I had supplied to wrap the boxes was rolled into shape and tacked. The rhs box and it's skin Soon after that, this was ready, the right hand box ready for a test fit I decided to re-use the hanger brackets from the original exhaust, I’d like to have replaced them with stainless but It involved a lot of extra work which can be put off until a later stage. These were just tacked on for test fitting. A few small adjustments needed to be made after the first test fit just to get everything lining up right. Soon there were 2
  8. At this stage I started to see it as a collection of pieces that needed to be made and joined together so I priced up the materials to make them with t304 stainless and it seemed achievable. There were a few issues with making exact copies in t304. I couldn’t get mandrel bends with a small enough radius so had to adjust the design to suit the minimum radius available. Calculations showed that the extra radius would have minimal effect on back pressure (<2mBar difference). I adjusted the baffle plates to suit and sent off my dwg to a company who cut them out for me. I also ordered all pipes and flanges needed and enough sheet steel to wrap the 2 boxes, all plates, sheet and pipes were 2mm t304 stainless. I made a wooden jig to aid with assembly and used it initially to line up the baffle plates, then to test fit the pipes. Mazda had done something in the original exhaust which helped me a lot in this. Although the boxes were made from mild steel, the outer pipe with the butterfly valve was made from stainless. This meant I could reuse these pipes on the new system and not have to transfer the butterfly valve into a new pipe.
  9. The 20b has 2 back boxes with twin outlet pipes on each. The outer pipe on each side has a butterfly valve which is opened by vacuum at high load. I wanted to retain this feature if I could. Upon removing a section from the shell of the box, the box’s complicated guts were revealed. It took a lot of head scratching to figure out the direction of flow and what went where. Each box has 2 internal baffle plates which hold the pipework in place and also divide the box into chambers. The inflow pipe carries gasses through chamber 1 and releases them into chambers 2 and 3. A hole in the first baffle allows the gasses back into chamber 1 where they can only go into the smaller pipe. The smaller pipe does 2 x 180degree turns before flowing out the exit. The bigger pipe has the valve which opens by vacuum and allows gasses from chamber 2 to exit more directly. I made a few sketches and drew it up in cad. View of baffle plates with holes needed 4 for the left, 4 for the right Side view showing gas flow Plan view showing gas flow (rhs box) Confusing isn't it?
  10. The Cosmo is in pretty good condition for a 26 year old car, the only real rust I’ve found so far was in the exhaust back boxes (mufflers if you like). I noticed some blowing a few years ago and got some patches welded on the boxes as an interim solution to get it through testing, I’ve been planning to replace them since and they just got worse over time. They originally had an extra thin layer of steel covering the top with a sheet of asbestos-like padding sandwiched between. I guess this was for sound and heat proofing but any moisture that got in there was trapped and rusted the boxes. Original lhs back box with patches of Alfa Romeo added OEM replacements don’t seem to exist anymore so another solution was needed. As much as I’ve drooled over the Kakimoto system that’s available for it in Japan, it would take from the originality of the car, drain my budget (about €1600 before shipping), and leave me needing supporting mods to allow for the extra flow and reduced backpressure. A few 2nd hand sets have come up, not cheap, without knowing what condition they were like on the inside, I wasn’t willing to risk a lot of money on a set and any that were cheap enough to be worth a gamble, the sellers fell off the face of the planet after I enquired. Another option was to get somebody local to fit magnaflow boxes or similar but again, no way of knowing how flow would be affected. So a while back I decided to cut open one of mine so I could figure out how they work, it was beyond repair anyway as some of the insides had come loose and were rattling around in there. Guts removed (rhs box) An idea of the pipe routing
  11. Mine passed nct last Friday with an 18kg bag of dog food in the boot I had forgotten about, they never mentioned it. Not Consistent Testers?
  12. I'm looking for opinions on the various options out there for coil pack upgrades. There are older threads about this but some of the info and links are gone out of date, prices and exchange rates may have changed too. It seems there are 3 main options, Mazda "c", d585 and ign1a. There are lots of ways of buying separate components but for easy comparison I'm looking at full kits including plug leads, brackets and harness adapters if required. Mazda "c" - available in a kit from mrp for about 610 euro inc plugs. mazdarotaryparts d585 - not as easy to find in EU/UK as US. Rotaryrevs used to have a kit but don't have them listed in their shop, the kit they sell uses Mazda "c" coils and costs around 530 euro with plugs. NPboosted (Canada) have a kit for about 250 euro but add plugs, shipping and taxes I can only guess that comes in about the 550 mark too. ign1a/aem type - The coils can be got fairly cheap but harness adapters are hard to find, sakebombgarage.com kit would work out pretty expensive with shipping and taxes. Ryanrotary (UK) do a kit which appears to be using this type of coil for about 530 euro inc plugs, or are they rebranded mazda coils? ryanrotaryperformance.com/shop The rotaryrevs kit seems like the best value and they have a good reputation. Is there anything I'm missing? Open to reviews, opinions or more links. Also, where is good value for buying plugs?
  13. Was surprised to get an eyeful of this in my travels yesterday. After seeing the car I was playing a game of spot the rotorhead, didn't spot any obvious contenders though.
  14. Hey all I was in Leisureplex in Blanchardstown last week and one of the arcade games got my attention because it had a yellow FD in it. My boys wanted a go so I hopped in and went to the Mazda garage in car selection. I was surprised at the range of Mazdas that were available, fb, fc, fd, jc and 110s. Of course I chose the jc Cosmo type S. A very arcadey driving experience but great craic. The game is a version of Wangan Midnight Maximum Tune and I since found out it can be got for ps3 so I'm on the lookout. Gran Turismo 2 is where I learned about the existence of the Cosmo, and I think that's the last of that series it appeared in so it was nice to find it in a game that's still somewhat in use.
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