Chazz

Registered Users
  • Content count

    830
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  • Last visited

  • Days Won

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Chazz last won the day on April 17

Chazz had the most liked content!

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About Chazz

  • Rank
    Supporting Member

core_pfieldgroups_99

  • Occupation
    Self Employed - IT

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Dublin

Contact Methods

  • Interests
    Sea Kayaking, Camping, Skiing, Airsoft and of course my RX8.
  1. Noooooooooo! Stick with the Rex Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Hi Fauzger, can't see any listed on the forum for those areas. [emoji33] Put you question up on the Irish Rotary Facebook page you'll get a bigger audience who may know someone in those areas. [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Have you checked to see if either of the drop links has broken. [emoji848] Wheel imbalance? Check to see if the little lead weight have dropped off. [emoji848] Is there a humming noise as well? Could be a wheel bearing [emoji848] That's just off the top of my head. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Well guys today I spent a good while under the RX8 cleaning the connectors on the Neutral Switch. Couldn't get a suitable 27mm tool to completely remove the sensor from the gearbox as it's positioned on top of the damn unit. Anyway, reconnected the contacts and added additional electrical tape around the wires just in case. I've attached 2 videos here so you guys can see what I'm up against! The first video called "Engine No Start" is me trying to start the car with her in Neutral, Clutch Pedal to the floor and NOT touching the Accelerator Pedal. The second video called "Engine Start" is where the car is again in Neutral, Clutch Pedal to the floor and this time the Accelerator Pedal is to the floor also. When she tries to start I release the Accelerator Pedal and I get ignition. I'm hoping one or more of you guys can shed some light on my plight! Just to re-cap on what I've replaced to date over last number of weeks. 1. Fuel Pump. 2. Fuel Pump Resistor. 3. D585 Coils and Leads. 4. New set of Spark Plugs. 5. Thermostat. 6. Throttle Body. 7. Accelerator Pedal. 8. Removed and cleaned all 4 Yellow Injectors and 2 Red Injectors. 9. Cleaned Fuel Rails. 10. Removed and Cleaned SSV & VDI units. 11. New Air Filer. 12 Oil and Filter only change last November 2016. 13. Checked all Fuses & Relays - All perfect. Engine_No_Start.mp4.mp4 Engine_Start.mp4.mp4
  5. Okay here's what I found after getting under the car and disconnecting the reverse and neutral switch. Have perfect contact with the reverse switch. However, the neutral switch gives erratic ohm readings when in neutral i.e. Sometimes nothing registered and sometimes a reading. Here's a photo of the connections on the switch itself. Note the buildup of crap. Sprayed WD40 on the connections and reconnected. Crawled out from under the car and turned on the ignition...BOOM! She started up as normal 1,500rpm revs to begin and the settled at around 900rpm, then began hunting. This lasted for about 5/6 minutes. Restarted and same as above happened. I think I maybe on to something at long last. It's an electrical fault I believe. Tomorrow I'll get a 27mm spanner onto the switch and remove it for a proper inspection and clean. [emoji848][emoji3] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. @littlefeck, that would be great if you could. My car is parked outside my parents house, the estate opposite Marley Park, as that is where it stopped working on me. I'll PM you the address and google map details. Now here's a funny thing that just happened with the car before I began to work on her again. I selected all the gears 1,2,3 etc., without putting the clutch in or starting her up, then put her in neutral, then put the clutch to the floor and cranked her over and she started as normal and held idle for about 2 minutes then died. But now she's back to the problem again. It's a head scratcher [emoji12][emoji848][emoji848] Going to check out that neutral and reverse switch in 10 minutes. 🤞 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Thanks for the offer Jamie, unfortunately I can't get the damn think to hold idle so she's not drivable. Being doing a lot of internet searching and reading and can't get a solid reason as to what is causing my problem. Your tip on checking the neutral and reverse switch I've read about and once the rain stops I'll jack her up and check them out. At this stage I'm hoping that's the problem ' cause it's a cheap fix. Otherwise I think I've got compression problems [emoji33][emoji85] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Well the OMP seems fine. Pulled everything out of the engine bay today to get at it. Connected everything back up. At this stage I've resided myself to the fact that after all I've replaced and quadrupled checked I believe my 19 month old rebuilt engine, (only 12,897 miles is on it, 5 oil changes and plugs changed twice) is F@&"ed! [emoji35][emoji35][emoji35] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Hi guys, can you remove me (Chazz, no. 46 on the list) from this years event. It appears my engine is FUBAR[emoji22][emoji22] Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. No never checked the OMP so will be taking it out tomorrow and clean it out and will do as you instructed [emoji106] If that doesn't fix the problem then Shadow Rotary will have their work cut out for them as I've replaced nearly everything except the damn engine itself[emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Checked that Dusty all is working. However, here's a photo of the OMP lines while I have the engine on running at 2,000rpm, my assistant holding the pedal to keep it from dying, I don't see any oil traveling through them. Would this be normal? My understanding is that oil should be running through even at intervals!! [emoji848] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Still trying to solve this problem myself [emoji848] Today I did the deflood procedure by pressing down and holding both the Clutch and Accelerator pedals to the floor and cranking for 10 seconds. Repeated this procedure 6 times. On the 7 time, slowly releasing the Accelerator pedal and feathering it the engine started up and I held her at just under 2,000rpm. Waited till the engine reached warm temperature, at the 12 o'clock position on the dial, and released the Accelerator pedal and she died immediately. Restarted her again, holding at 2,000rpm, and again once I released the clutch pedal she'd die. Also if I keep the clutch pedal to the floor and release the Accelerator pedal from holding her at 2,000rpm she dies. Anyone ever hear of this problem with any other car besides an RX8? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Thanks for the offer Andy[emoji106] but I'll hold off on it for the moment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Looking good Aidan[emoji106] So what about the front reg plate, thinking of putting a vinyl one on the bumper above the grill?[emoji848] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Thought about that Andy but looking as to what's involved like having to get a new keys, key barrel and immobiliser I decided to get the wiring diagram and test mine. Couldn't find and broken wires or connections and all connections have resistance where required. The lads in Shadow are my last hope and finding wtf is wrong. I'm praying to the Rotary Gods it's not engine failure after it only been rebuilt 12,997 miles ago. Hope the guys answer the phone tomorrow [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk