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zg3409 last won the day on January 7

zg3409 had the most liked content!

About zg3409

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    Junior Member

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    South Dublin

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    going sideways
  1. Got bit by an FD and now I want more

    There is a lot more activity on the facebook group. Ask to join and you may get more responses: https://www.facebook.com/groups/irishrotary/
  2. Video from December 2017 meet in Bray: Thanks to EdTheCarGuy
  3. Photos etc from Novembers Dublin meet here: http://www.backroads.ie/forums/showthread.php?24171-Backroads-Cars-amp-Coffee-Sunday-November-5th-2017/page2 Note you may need to log in to back roads/facebook to see them
  4. The dark blue RX8 on the right. Cream leather interior, rebuilt engine since the photo 192 mostly stock
  5. Premix Deal

    I have been updating the thread as I go along. My earlier advice changed, based on advice/rumour from others. Some say one is better than the other.
  6. Rx8 help

    >You said the cat is not tested so can I replace it with straight pipe ? Yes you can in Republic of Ireland with NCT. It will bring up an intermittent fault check engine light, which can be mapped out by littlefeck.. Most just knock out the contents and leave the old pipe. It might affect your insurance if it is counted as a modification. Have a look here: Little fecks details are on there. He has a day job so best to meet him evening weekends: Name: Jamie Location: Athy, Co. Kildare Contact: 0857202383 He is only a 20 min drive from yourself. If you arranged with him to have the car at his place early some Saturday that would give him the daylight and the time to give it a once over. A couple of hours would cost less than a coilpack. give him a bell. That would be my advice
  7. Rx8 help

    Here is quite a good guide to coils, leads and spark plugs: https://www.rx8ownersclub.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=33737
  8. Rx8 help

    >I am going to get coilpacks Be very careful where you buy from. There are lots of fake packs around, particularly on ebay. The genuine models are laser engraved part numbers, not printed. I would recommend just going to littlefeck (phone number on this forum) as genuine coilpacks are 200 ish It would be much less stress to get someone to check all these things in an hour, and probably cheaper. You can also test coil packs if you know how to use a multimeter. See here: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/beware-genuine-coilpacks-ebay-247265/ Note white/melted spots on the coil packs mean nothing and are normal. As already suggested these are the main problem/fixes Catalytic converter, under car under driver glows red hot and blocks engine, can be bashed out as not checked during NCT. Low compression can only be checked with special tester as rotary cannot be tested with normal compression tester Spark plugs, special types needed, two are different from others HT leads between spark plugs and coil packs, these do not last long, so they go regularly. Also an old/worn starter motor with a small/old starter battery can cause starting issues (does not seem to be the issue in your case)
  9. Rx8 help

    I would recommend bringing it to a specialist. In Dublin you have shadow rotary. They are very good but do not answer the phone and have a back log of weeks. Near greystones there is Leonard who works on cars evenings and weekends. I have a compression tester, but it would be better for a mechanic to look over it and swap all coils etc. for known good ones. Gave you a couple of hundred cash to pay someone to diagnose the real problem?
  10. Rx8 help

    Where is Ireland are you based? Can you drive the car? Are you sure the correct spark plugs were used as they are very specialist and half the plugs are different. It would be best to bring it to a rotary specialist as they can check and swap everything quick. Normally assuming everything is OK, low compression first gives problems restarting when hot, not starting when cold. Was car OK first couple of days you bought it? Or was it a non runner?
  11. Premix Deal

    Spoke to Anthony in Shadow. He DOES NOT recommend Euroil branded premix due to deposits left, nor any fully synthetic premix. He did not recommend a specific brand
  12. Premix Deal

    There was a discussion on the facebook group in relation to premix. I will try copy the info below so everyone can make up their mind for themselves: ------------------------------------- >James O Connor Right lads I have 12 x1 litre bottles of Marine 2 stroke (not the North Sea Stuff)! I can take 4. Eoin is taking 4 or 5! Who's definitely up for One? Mike Clinton -> Synth two stroke (fully synthetic 2 stroke) is as bad as synth oil in a rotary engine. I use mineral two stroke carrying the TCW3 standard which has superb bonding qualities and ideal for two stroke watercraft engines. I am a marine engineer/outboard technician with over 25 years of two stroke experience. No watercraft engine uses synth/semi synth two stroke oil. Even Yamaha jetski's use a finely blended two stroke oil at a metered 100/1 mix (which I personally think is too little) so my customers pre-mix with TCW3 mineral as well. None of the customers have come back with oil problems. We have been using TCW3 mineral in our 13B which was rebuilt almost 7 years ago. Mike Clinton We are in the republic and I source my TCW3 from my suppliers. I have just collected a box of 12 x 1lt bottles today. James is collecting them for people to try. They are costing me just under €5 p/l and I am passing on the cost to members. The NMMA is the marine water cooled engine spec. >James O Connor This is a different oil to the north sea stuff and Mike has been using it in his fd for years with no issue! I do believe some people only use the Castrol you mentioned, Shane being one of them for his pp race car. > ------------------------------------------- So Mike recommends TCW3 standard. This is a marine standard, and most TCW3 oils do not have a JASO or ISO standard attached. Nothing seems to be recommended for a rotary engine except the non synthetic (mineral) in the normal oil as recommended by Mazda since mid 2017 notice to dealers. http://www.rx8help.com/doc/tsbs/Rotary Engine Oil (Prohibition of Use of Synthetic Engine Oil).pdf So possibly based on this, and a bit of guesswork, then a 2 stroke additive fully synthetic is not the way to go, as it may get washed away, which is not what we want, and going with a TCW3 standard might be a better option. I bought some TCW3 oil from ebay, and I will start premixing my RX8 with this. Time will tell..(hopefully a long time) ----------------------------------------------------------
  13. Premix Deal

    I have looked in some depth at the premix issue and threads elsewhere. One way of reducing the cost of premix, is to use a Sohn adapter and feed 2 stroke directly into the engine instead of engine oil. There is a good sohn kit on ebay with all the parts for converting over. I wont go into all the pros and cons, but potentially you may no longer need to premix, but some people recommend it in addition to premix in the fuel tank. You might also save on the need to do as regular engine oil changes. In terms of cheaper premix I WOULD NOT recommend North Sea Lubricants NSL7296L5. If we ignore all the marketing descriptive bull and stick to industry comparisons, there are 2 main standards. JASO (A Japanese standard) recommended for rotaries is oil meeting JASO FD ISO (International standard) recommended for rotaries is oil meeting ISO L EGD Generally these oils are 100% synthetic and expensive. They should also be lower ash and have a higher flash point, although I like to stick to standards and ignore marking waffle and specification sheets that cannot be compared like for like. You might save buying in 5 litres quantities, or going to a less well known brand. See here for proof: https://www.mm-intercom.si/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/NSL-katalog.compressed.pdf and here for a comparison table: http://www.reinhardoil.dk/North sea lube brochuer/48325 NSL Specifications 2013 HR 040213.pdf From those charts Stream Power 2T extra part number 7294 and Stream Power SYN2T part number 7295, do meet the standards, although part number 7295 is probably better and more expensive. The one spoken about earlier in the thread does not seem to have been tested to the JASO or ISO standards and it is only tested to a NMMA standard. So to summarise: JASO FD or ISO L EGD is what is really needed, and then we can compare prices. I was paying about 4 euro (1/4 litre) a 70 euro fill (50 litres) for premix (200:1 ratio), and it would be good to get an equivalent. I was using Castrol Power 1 Racing 2T at 17 ish euro in halfords. I see one JASO FD oil on ebay 4L for 26 euro including shipping which is 6.50 a litre. If you buy in higher quantity then price reduces (free shipping on additional quantity) towards 4.24 a litre. I would recommend the TC+ from ebay as it is fully synthetic and meets the specification. I just ordered 5 x 1L for 5.70 a litre including shipping. If buying in Halfords I would recommend the Castrol Power 1 2T over the "RACING" as the difference seems to be to do with a "wet clutch performance" and this is cheaper at 13.20 a litre. This cheaper oil meets the JASO FD and should be as good if not better than the racing version for your engine. Ideally fully synthetic is better, but without a comparison standard it would be best to just save the money and put it towards a rebuild! I would also recommend making up a premix filling kit and storage system as I have managed to spill premix twice now in my boot, and cheaper containers do not have a pull out funnel.
  14. I did not find an online guide to repair of central locking on a Mazda RX8 so I said I would create one here. It seems to be somewhat common for the central locking to fail on the Mazda RX8, but it can be fixed. There are 3 main steps: 1) Identify what is at fault 2) Get matching replacement parts 3) Install the replacement parts and test Step 1) If your remote control is not unlocking the doors, there are a number of reasons. Note this debug guide only applies to the RX8 with the 4 button fob, not other keyless entry or RX8 without remote unlocking. i) Check does a spare remote unlock/lock the car, if you have one. It may just be a flat battery in the remote ii) Check if there is a red light in the middle of the lock and unlock buttons on the remote when you try to lock or unlock, again this can identify a weak remote. There is a battery inside which can be replaced. See guides online. iii) Even with a remote that lights up, it may need to be programmed to work with the car, unlikely, but it may have never worked. See online guides for RX8/Mazda remote programming guides iv) If you use the key to lock and unlock the main drivers door, does the passenger door lock and unlock, if it does, then the locks on the doors are OK, the problem is with the remote control keyfob or programming. v) Does the courtesy light come on when you open the doors (it can be turned off at the roof). If it does not come on when you open each door and close each door, then the system will get confused and refuse to lock the doors. Check the roof light/door open switch is OK before assuming the locks are faulty. The system needs to know the doors are properly closed before it will attempt to lock them. vi) Sit in the car with the doors closed and try to press the switch on the drivers inside door to lock the drivers door. Does the passenger side switch 'twitch' or slightly attempt to lock. If so this is a near sure sign the passenger lock is worn and will need to be replaced. Try the same using the remote and see does the drivers door inside switch twitch. In my case the passenger door twitched and the drivers door seemed unresponsive. The cure was replacing both locks. Another thing to check is to close both door switches when inside the car, then using the remote attempt to lock the car. You should get both orange indicator lights flashing and the car intruder alarm will start to arm. This indicates the car attempted to lock, found both doors were already locked and is now arming the intruder alarm. This further indicates the locks themselves are worn, but the remote is OK vii) Note the central locking system has its own computer. In some cases people needed to replace this unit as it was faulty. I do not cover this here: 2) This guide is aimed at solving 'twitching' inside switches or non responsive doors, where the fault is the central locking motor system itself. If you feel you are not up to the job then get a professional to look at it. My car was only 9 years old and both doors had this problem, so they seem to fail early or there was a large batch of unreliable units. To source parts look on ebay. Also contact nearby scrap yards as many of these do not list online. You could buy replacements directly from Mazda, but I suspect the cost would be much higher, and if they fail again, you can use the key to unlock the car. The actual part that wears is inside a sealed plastic welded part so there is no real way to repair it, just replace it. There are lots of RX8s being scrapped so there should be cheap parts available. When ordering the locks try to get as much as possible, such as the cables to the inside door handle and the inside door handle itself, and the bars that link to the outside handle. This will make life easier later. NOTE the drivers lock is DIFFERENT to the passenger side SO DO NOT ORDER FROM USA to EU and vice versa, as left hand drive locks are not the same as right hand drive locks. 3) Now you have the parts you think you need, it is vital you plan ahead. You can easily lock yourself out of the car, or end up with an un-drive-able car as the door wont shut or open. If both doors need to be fixed, only work on one at a time, and start first thing in the morning, giving a full day in case of problems. It might seem like a quick job, but it could take your many hours. Basic precautions: i) unlock both doors, and keep them unlocked to prevent you locking yourself out ii) turn off curtsy lights to prevent the battery draining due to leaving the lights on all day iii) Do not wind down the windows, as the glass will block the inside of the door iiii) Make sure you have a good socket set and screwdrivers and a helper to assist. A good light may help too. iv) Assuming the left hand passenger door, open the door and keep it open from now on. Remove the door panel as shown in this youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mP4Wt1YzASQ Remember to keep all the parts safe in a cup or similar. DO NOT REMOVE THE SCREWS FOR THE WINDOW MOTOR. This is the key step to make sure everything does not start coming apart. It is just possible to replace the lock without removing the electric window motor. If you do end up removing those screws, the whole thing can come apart, with glass falling into the door etc. You may need a specialist at this point, if you have removed the electric window motor and have problems. You may way to disconnect most or all the electrical connectors at this point. You may be able to test the replacement lock if the door thinks it is closed and the new lock is electrically connected instead. I did not do this myself. After removing most of the door panels, you can now remove the screws holding in the lock at the end of the door. This enables the lock to be removed. You also need to disconnect the cables to the outside door handle. There is one bar for the handle, and another for the key (if drivers side). If you are working on the drivers side there is a metal cover that prevents someone opening the door by sticking something down beside the glass. This need to be removed also. Once the cables to the door handle are removed and the bolts holding the lock in place are removed, you should remove the inside door handle and remove the entire lock with the inside door handle complete. This will allow you to not mix anything up and re-install easily. Then all you need to do is carefully refit everything and test. Let me know any other advice you may have for a trouble free replacement.