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L'eSkro

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L'eSkro last won the day on December 28 2017

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About L'eSkro

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  1. L'e$kro's JDM RX8 6 speed

    2018 Update. Failed NCT on a few things: -Front shocks imbalance. Annoying as they are Mazdaspeed ones, and I got rid of the oem ones.. -Rear tracking. Last time car passed with different tyre sizes at the back! -Rear tyre past the limit. -Rear parking light (it's dimmed, seems there is a bad ground or something) Nico
  2. The Barn Find

    Thanks! R26B! The FC is off daily duties for the winter, I’m driving the Rx8 at the moment... I’m building a spare engine for the Fc, but it will take a while... I’ll keep you updated with progress Nico
  3. Hi Derek No problem PM me your address... Nico
  4. L'e$kro's JDM RX8 6 speed

    I robbed 20mm spacers and front GTR wheels with NS2R tyres from the FC: It clears the brakes, barely! Also, it will need 20mm spacers at the back to bring them out like at the front. Tyres are grippy, I can hammer the brakes without locking them I’ll take better pictures when the weather won’t be so crappy.. Nico
  5. I don't know all the trim levels on FDs, I thought the RZ spec'd ones were late models (97 or 99 ones, and the type R, etc..) I didn't know the pistons were staggered on these, i thought just the mounting lugs were different, good to know! Nico
  6. Good man! Aren't late spec calipers the same size pistons, with longer mounting lugs to accommodate bigger discs? Anyway, 1" master cylinder for 4 pots will do perfectly I'm sure! Other cars with similaly seized calipers have 1" MCs... Nico
  7. L'e$kro's JDM RX8 6 speed

    Thanks JP! Sorry JP, I ripped it out and it went to the bin straight away. You could possibly remove it delicately from rx8 leather seats, but otherwise you can avoid sacrificing good seats by purchasing aftermarket heating elements from eBay/Amazon, may turn out cheaper, plus it will come with wiring, relay and switches. If you do sacrifice rx8 seats for the cause, the hard covers on my seats have seen better days :hint: Nico
  8. Bigger M/C will push more cc per mm of travel, so it will compensate for larger calipers (bigger bore pistons or more of them), as these will take more volume of fluid to travel. If you use a bigger m/c with same size calipers, it will take less travel to brake but the pedal is going to be more firm. You can compensate that with a bigger booster, but what you gain in bite you lose in ability to modulate. Going one size above on same calipers should be fine though, that's what i've done on my mx5 (15/16" instead of 7/8", along with the double brake booster from the sports model). A 1" m/c + associated brake booster should be fine on a standard FD No. I just know that had a look at my neighbour's Evo, and thought it could be a better fit than the Subaru one I already have, as the vacuum port was on the engine side. Nico
  9. If you shorten the spring for your wastegate, it may not have any preload to keep the flap shut, so it won't spool. Also, when cutting coils of a spring, it actually makes it stiffer. If you remove all the coils from a spring, it becomes a stick. Regarding the wideband, if you have it already, you can wire it in, and depending on the model, it may have an "emulated narrowband" output that you can wire in place of your oem narrowband signal, so you don't have to add a second O2 sensor boss, and this way, you can monitor your AFR using a gauge or using a laptop. Even for breaking the engine in, better be safe than sorry, it takes only seconds for detonations to break an engine, while it takes hours/days to rebuild! Nico
  10. Sure, don’t hesitate! Nico
  11. I do! Where are you based? Nico
  12. L'e$kro's JDM RX8 6 speed

    A picture of the tablet setup: The culprit for the battery drain is the GPS. If I don't switch it off manually, it drains the battery. I've ordered a Behringer UFO202 DAC, to see if it gets rid of the parasitic noise. I'm also trying a different launcher (Car Web Guru) but it's not setup yet.. And in order to get rid of some droning noise resonating in the cabin at certain RPMs, I've added a flex section after my manifold: It's slightly better, and it's as good as it will get anyway! Nico
  13. L'e$kro's JDM RX8 6 speed

    So, the battery drain was due to a bad contact with the dome lights bulbs, and also, the spare PC680 battery wasn't 100% either, so I've put the other small factor battery I had and now it starts well in the morning... Another project I've been doing during the week end: The Satnav housing: Hardware: I had an old Nexus 7 (2012). I had to push 5v in the battery directly to charge it, as it wouldn't charge or power on after sitting for a few years, but I managed to re-animate it. Even with an angled "Y" USB host and charging cable, I thought it was a little tight to fit within the housing, so instead I moved the USB and audio ports at the back of the case, saved me on making room: Tablet is glued in place with a glue gun. Not ideal, but still should come out if needed, I didn't go mad with it. Then I fitted the OEM controller board and the motor back in. Controller board is resting on polystyrene pads and glue. I was lucky to have the OEM connector and a bit of wiring for the satnav board, I just un-pined all the unnecessary wires. I tapped into the stereo connector for the permanent live, and the cigarette ignitor for ground and switched live. Illumination feed comes from the cigarette lighter light. The tablet is powered using a 2.1A cigarette lighter thingy, and it takes its current from the cigarette lighter wires. On the host side, I have a Belkin hub in the glovebox for accessories: USB stick, SNES pads. Audio is just a minijack cable from the tablet to the Xcarlink aux box, also in the glovebox. I may replace this with a USB DAC/sound card as there are a lot of parasitic noises when the engine is on and revving. I may also try a ground loop isolator thingy, we'll see. I installed the tablet while low on battery, and the only way I found to charge it easily without leaving the ignition ON, is to plug a spare battery into the cigarette ignitor socket, so it charges the tablet with the key off and doesn't drain the main battery. Software: I installed the USB ROM firmware, as it lightweight and adds a couple of nice features: Fast charging, having the menu bar at the bottom, goes to sleep when not charging, and wakes up when charging. The launcher I have at the moment is Car Launcher AG. Interface is nice nut it doesn't allow to configure custom buttons (ie: "Games") EDIT: managed to do it, can change name icon and target. The Navigation app used is CoPilot The tablet currently loses 30% of battery overnight, which is more than I would charge by just commuting. I'll have to look into what's draining the battery (It seems to point to Google services) and disable whatever is not needed. I'll take a few pics of the finished setup.. Nico
  14. My recommendation would be to put back a rotary in it Jokes aside, chosing the size of master cylinder depends of the volume you need at your calipers. If you run oem calipers, the standard 15/16” master should work well. If you put a 1” one, it will push more volume faster, so your pedal will be a little harder to press, but will have less travel. For the clutch master, not sure, but I reckon Wilwood should have something that works if the standard master cylinder doesn’t cut it! Nico
  15. L'e$kro's JDM RX8 6 speed

    And another day I had to get a lift to work. I've replaced the regular battery for a spare Odyssey PC680 I had for the FC, and the battery went flat overnight again, so there is something drawing current. I'll have to investigate during the week end. Nico
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