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Showing most liked content since 03/23/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Damien

    Engine Cooling System - alot of heat

    So just to update and close this thread. Ordered the relevant thermostat from the local auto factors (82 degree unit) and installed it at the weekend. A reasonably straightforward install (have to admit I found this youtube invaluable: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TrNG5z0vUcw&t=415s ) and the nuts on the tube on the manifold from the air pump valve loosened with just a little spray of penetrating spray. So I am glad to report that the replacement of the thermostat appears to have solved the over heating issue. (I suppose it does not seem like there is an issue as the only indicator is that the cooling fans are running at full blast - because the temperature gauge seems to happily sit just below centre irrespective of temperature! Using an OBDII Bluetooth adapter I monitored the temperature and I never seemed to climb above about 93 degree C - this was just sitting - no driving - however a quick drive (speed slow but revs up a touch!) and at no stage did the cooling fans come on - before this after two or three mins they would be on - and persist as the temperature would not decrease. I hope I have this solved - my only concern is what other damage has been done because of this issue and when will it raise its ugly head - and I do not know for how long it has been like this oh well I am sure time will tell but for now onto the next job - new discs and pads all round! Thank you to everyone who has contributed and helped solve this first problem - ( I suspect one solved of many to come )
  2. 2 points
    muckwarrior

    Engine Cooling System - alot of heat

    The fans staying on that long definitely isn't normal. You'll need an OBD reader to find out just how hot it is. The temperature gauge is one step above useless.
  3. 1 point
    Engine sold to a member on here. Hope they've many a happy year of rotoring ahead!
  4. 1 point
    Black 04 RX8 for breaking - please look through the list below before asking for something as the prices of the major items are listed below. The picture upload functionality is slow at the moment so once that's resolved photos will go up - in the meantime check out the Dropbox link here with all the pics etc: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ptlq1jo652hcd4a/AAAJVVEdRmp-kMLyoWqH8_Eba?dl=0 Anything that's not listed just ask on this thread or ideally call (please don't text - if you don't get through I'll call you back) the number: 083 1289 800 Sebring cat-back exhaust €150 D585 coils + leads + mounting bracket + harness €220 Suspension €50 front & €50 back Body panels including doors/bonnet/bumpers/bootlid/wings in black €50 each Interior parts/panels €20 each Radio including working 6-CD changer €80 BOSE amplifier & speakers €100 Limited Slip Differential €100 Headlights (HID model) €100 each Rear Lights €50 each RX8 18" alloys in good condition including all centre caps Continental ContiSport Contact2 225/45/18 ~6mm thread Dunlop SP Sport01 225/45/18 ~5mm thread €250 Aluminium RX8 sill covers in excellent condition with rotary-shaped detailing €100 for both Factory front & rear spats (in black) €100 for the set Front Wing Side Strakes €20 for the set of 4 Aluminium Fuel Flap €50 Key set (2 keys) includes igntition barrel, rear boot lock, door lock €150 Suspension arms €20 each Brake Calipers set (front) €100 ECU, airbags, clocks, Remote Keyless Entry Unit, etc POA
  5. 1 point
    I've uploaded a pic taken this evening - the only bit of rust is the tiny bit at the top left of the photo at the edge of the standard lip spoiler. That'll do nicely I'll call you tomorrow if that's ok and arrange collection Thanks Derek
  6. 1 point
    muckwarrior

    What Have You Done to Your RX Today?

    Shadow got to the bottom of the problem. Turned out to be a bad coil. All good now [emoji3] Next step is to get onto Rotary Revs as they have a lifetime warranty. Edit: for the sake of completeness, other symptoms included slow starting and a hesitation and lack of power around 4k rpm. Interestingly it seemed to run fine above 5k.
  7. 1 point
    Frogger

    FC Canadian guy in Ireland

    JP Thank you Have been away for a while now had to go back for a funeral stayed long enough for a wedding.. I'll look into these. Cheers,
  8. 1 point
    Nah, I'm nearly finished the full mock-up of the Series 1.2 Renesis though thanks to the help of the gents in Shadow Rotary. More to come on that.
  9. 1 point
    Ahh I thought you bought a dead one and were selling the parts, was just curious to see what mischief you would be up to with maybe rebuilding the engine mate
  10. 1 point
    jp

    Clutch master cylinder

    Looooots of WD40? And try tightening it first before loosening it - wee trick I learnt just to get it physically moving. WD40 the bejeebus out of it beforehand though & let is seep in.
  11. 1 point
    Damien

    Engine Cooling System - alot of heat

    Bradyy - I don't think so but I can't confirm 100% that is hasn't been re-mapped. I'm not convinced that there is any issue with the overall cooling system in the car from the point of view of the fans because it is in essence doing what it is supposed to - the bigger issue now is the fact that after a 2mile spin, without any pressurized revving or 'spirited' driving the coolant temperature is reaching 100 deg C! I am going to try a new thermostat just to see if that makes and difference and will of course report back. Aido - delighted to see another RX8 owner within the county and will compile a PM for you and thank you
  12. 1 point
    Bradyy

    Engine Cooling System - alot of heat

    Hi Damien , Any chance the Rx8 has been re-mapped check with @littlefeck and see if he has done any of the Fan mods on it ? , Other than that they are staying on quite long would maybe check Thermo sensor on the block they rarely go wrong but just and idea ! Regards Dale !
  13. 1 point
    Aido 8

    Engine Cooling System - alot of heat

    Look I’m in Sligo to and a bit like yourself I am trying to learn bits. So, I bought a second rx8 for parts but can’t get time to break it although I have a little bit done. If you are feeling confident enough you are welcome to come to take whatever parts you may need, I guess with cars it’s all about having the right tools so I may not have all of what you need regarding tools. That coolant is fine do shoot me a pm if you want to arrange to come down to pull a part or 2 to see does it help you. Also, Marcin in MG Motors is fairly clued in on Rx8s and does Diagnostics for about 50 notes. Again you are welcome if you want to trial so parts
  14. 1 point
    Aido 8

    Engine Cooling System - alot of heat

    Hi and welcome to the forum Damien, does sound strange how it would be on for that long as the weather is quite cool, hopefully just something small triggering the fans to stay on like a faulty switch. A code reader would help to see if you have any codes and how hot it is but If you don’t have a code reader where about are you and someone might be near by with a code reader for yah. Fair play for changing the coolant but any harm asking which coolant it was
  15. 1 point
    Dartz

    What Have You Done to Your RX Today?

    I honestly don't know. I may just take the engine out, post it to Mazda and leave it with a note saying '160km survivor, please use for rotary breeding purposes' or something. I'd like to keep it going - at least until I can fit in an Mx-5. I did enjoy that when I drove it - I just didn't fat in it.
  16. 1 point
    L'eSkro

    L'e$kro's JDM RX8 6 speed

    Hey JP when I’ve checked with a multimeter it was fine. Problem is that it’s intermittent... There is an alarm alright... The original plan was to daily the rx8 for the winter, so that’s done. I’m in love again with the mx5. Way quicker, and half the petrol!
  17. 1 point
    fauzger

    RX8 Fuel Tank Sensor

    Thanks for the help
  18. 1 point
    zg3409

    Premix Deal

    I have looked in some depth at the premix issue and threads elsewhere. One way of reducing the cost of premix, is to use a Sohn adapter and feed 2 stroke directly into the engine instead of engine oil. There is a good sohn kit on ebay with all the parts for converting over. I wont go into all the pros and cons, but potentially you may no longer need to premix, but some people recommend it in addition to premix in the fuel tank. You might also save on the need to do as regular engine oil changes. In terms of cheaper premix I WOULD NOT recommend North Sea Lubricants NSL7296L5. If we ignore all the marketing descriptive bull and stick to industry comparisons, there are 2 main standards. JASO (A Japanese standard) recommended for rotaries is oil meeting JASO FD ISO (International standard) recommended for rotaries is oil meeting ISO L EGD Generally these oils are 100% synthetic and expensive. They should also be lower ash and have a higher flash point, although I like to stick to standards and ignore marking waffle and specification sheets that cannot be compared like for like. You might save buying in 5 litres quantities, or going to a less well known brand. See here for proof: https://www.mm-intercom.si/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/NSL-katalog.compressed.pdf and here for a comparison table: http://www.reinhardoil.dk/North sea lube brochuer/48325 NSL Specifications 2013 HR 040213.pdf From those charts Stream Power 2T extra part number 7294 and Stream Power SYN2T part number 7295, do meet the standards, although part number 7295 is probably better and more expensive. The one spoken about earlier in the thread does not seem to have been tested to the JASO or ISO standards and it is only tested to a NMMA standard. So to summarise: JASO FD or ISO L EGD is what is really needed, and then we can compare prices. I was paying about 4 euro (1/4 litre) a 70 euro fill (50 litres) for premix (200:1 ratio), and it would be good to get an equivalent. I was using Castrol Power 1 Racing 2T at 17 ish euro in halfords. I see one JASO FD oil on ebay 4L for 26 euro including shipping which is 6.50 a litre. If you buy in higher quantity then price reduces (free shipping on additional quantity) towards 4.24 a litre. I would recommend the TC+ from ebay as it is fully synthetic and meets the specification. I just ordered 5 x 1L for 5.70 a litre including shipping. If buying in Halfords I would recommend the Castrol Power 1 2T over the "RACING" as the difference seems to be to do with a "wet clutch performance" and this is cheaper at 13.20 a litre. This cheaper oil meets the JASO FD and should be as good if not better than the racing version for your engine. Ideally fully synthetic is better, but without a comparison standard it would be best to just save the money and put it towards a rebuild! I would also recommend making up a premix filling kit and storage system as I have managed to spill premix twice now in my boot, and cheaper containers do not have a pull out funnel.
  19. 1 point
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/150525826@N08/shares/z515P8 watch to the end as you get a look at the front of the car
  20. 0 points
    muckwarrior

    What Have You Done to Your RX Today?

    I've spent the past couple of days mostly punching myself in the face. I got the car back from Maciek after getting the arches and sills repaired and the very next morning I knocked over the bike rack I had leaning against the wall beside the car, resulting in a big gouge out of the fresh paint. It's also slightly dented so gonna have to go back to Maciek again
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